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Dairy Queen Wall - Right Side
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Airy Scene T 
Bill's Nuts T 
Biological Clock T 
Chili Dog T 
Date Shake T 
Dilly Bar T 
Double Decker T 
Frosty Cone T 
Hot Fudge T 
I Forgot to Have Babies TR 
Mr. Misty Kiss T 
Nuts and Cherries T 
Possum Pie T 
Scrumdillyishus T 
Squirrel Attack T 

Mr. Misty Kiss 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8- French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 14 British: VS 4c [details]
FA: Dan Ahlborn & Tim Powell, April 1976
Page Views: 4,201
Submitted By: C Miller on Jul 3, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (137)
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BETA PHOTO: Me leading Mr. Misty Kiss today

Description 

Super fun climbing up the heavily featured crack that offers all sorts of jams, face holds and protection opportunities. Gear belay and easy downclimb off the right edge of the cliff.

Location 

The obvious left-slanting crack system just right of a deep chimney/break in the center of the wall.

Protection 

Gear to 3"


Photos of Mr. Misty Kiss Slideshow Add Photo
seemed much harder than a 5.7.  Closer to a 5.8 or slightly more.  Decent route with lots of balence, hand jams, and lie backs.  This is my friend Mike working his way up the crack.
seemed much harder than a 5.7. Closer to a 5.8 or...
Shana Lauer on Mr. Misty Kiss.  Photo: Mike Morley
Shana Lauer on Mr. Misty Kiss. Photo: Mike Morley
Mr. Misty Kiss (5.7), Joshua Tree NP
Mr. Misty Kiss (5.7), Joshua Tree NP
Perfect splitter.
Perfect splitter.
Scott Flagg leads Mr. Misty Kiss.  Photo: Mike Morley
Scott Flagg leads Mr. Misty Kiss. Photo: Mike Mor...
Climbing the opening section of Mr. Misty Kiss.
Climbing the opening section of Mr. Misty Kiss.
Amir on Mr. Misty Kiss
BETA PHOTO: Amir on Mr. Misty Kiss

Comments on Mr. Misty Kiss Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Dec 13, 2012
By Anonymous Coward
Oct 14, 2002

I thought it was a 5.7. A difficult 5.7 tho!
By Andrew Gram
Administrator
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Nov 11, 2002

The guidebook said this was 5.7, but I thought it was much harder than Double Cross 7+, Sail Away 8, or even Room to Shroom 9. I felt like a heel for sending a new trad leader up it as her 4th lead, but was fairly happy I was just following it at the end of the day. On the bright side, it absolutely sews up with stoppers and small to medium cams. Great route.
By Mike Epke
From: Denver, CO
Mar 16, 2003

Great climb on the great rock at Dairy Queen wall. The pro was tricky because the crack flares a bit. My first 5.7 crack lead in the park, definitely a route I will remember. After the climb rap to the left then TR the 5.9 face climb Hot Fudge. Enjoy.
By Peter Gram
Administrator
From: New York, NY
Mar 27, 2003



Excellent quality splitter hand crack. Fun and sustained.
By Dynomight510
Sep 22, 2003
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Sustained 5.7 climb from start to finish. This is "Frack" climbing- a crack that has prominent face features allowing you to face climb rather than crack climb it in some or most places. It has solid small and medium nut placements all the way. HB Offsets and small hexes work perfectly. Bring some 2-3" cams for the belay or top rope set up. The rap station is two 1/2" bolts with shuts(term) rather than bolt hangers with chains. The downclimb though the chimney to the climbers right is another way to get down. But it is a downclimb not a walkoff. This route is in the shade by the noonish.

Quality rock and fun crack climbing.

Sustained. almost every move is 5.7
By Dustysdawg
Dec 31, 2004
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Fun route. Lots of big face holds the whole way and good protection in the crack. Maybe a 5.7, but definitely not 5.8. Double cross and White Lightning are way harder.
By Obi
From: Portland, OR
Oct 5, 2006
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

A bit pumpy if you climb it inefficiently. Another good one for the novice leader if they don't mind a bit of a pump.
By DaveGustafson
From: Palm Desert, CA
Nov 7, 2009
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Yet another fine example of the inconsistency of ratings at Josh. I must be a weakling with no crack climbing technique, but I sure think this was harder than some of the other 5.7 cracks I've led at Josh. I'd suggest that this route has a rating of 5.8. I wouldn't suggest this for a new leader.
By Chris D
From: the couch
Apr 17, 2010

Climbed this fun route today. Agree that it's sustained 5.7, and harder than many 5.7 climbs in the park. If it weren't so close to vertical, it would be 5.7 without all the discussion about it being a sandbag. For comparison, I'd say that though short, this is a harder lead than Double Cross, Mental Physics, or any of the other 5.7's on DQ wall. Not much like Sail Away, but I felt about as insecure leading this route as I did on Sail Away. I am not a strong 5.8 leader (yet!).

It was fun, but not a classic. It is easy to protect with nuts. Try protecting the top of Bills Nuts before you complain about the flaring nature of this route!

I would also not call this a "splitter." When I think of splitter, I think of a crack that's a split in the rock, not a crack like this that is shallow and mildly flaring.
By Brandontyrrell
May 20, 2010
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

5.8 for sure
By sleebs
Oct 12, 2010

Dear Mr Misty Kiss,
you were my first climb outside ever, and you were hard.
Thanks.
By J.J
Jun 7, 2011

Felt this to be harder than cake walk. Maybe a tad harder than hands off. Not a lot of crack climbing besides the last 15 feet. I felt it protected alright but not great and all the holds were really slippery! Hand jams were my only rests...
By Canon
Apr 16, 2012

Definitely the hardest "5.7" lead I've ever done in J Tree; Harder than Sail Away, Breakfast of Champions, Nurn's Romp, Mental Physics, etc. Sustained and not a lot of rests. There's a single bolt with quicklink 20ft to climber's right for rappelling off the wall.
By Russ Walling
From: www.FishProducts.com
Sep 26, 2012

There's a single bolt with quicklink 20ft to climber's right for rappelling off the wall.

That is some pretty suspect advice. That "single" bolt is not for rapping off of, and the down climb takes about 3 minutes.
By Climb To Safety
From: california
Dec 13, 2012
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

rock was ice cold, made the climbing that much more intense with numb hands. harder than frosty cone.