Mr. Misty Kiss 

I thought it was a 5.7. A difficult 5.7 tho!

The guidebook said this was 5.7, but I thought it was much harder than Double Cross 7+, Sail Away 8, or even Room to Shroom 9. I felt like a heel for sending a new trad leader up it as her 4th lead, but was fairly happy I was just following it at the end of the day. On the bright side, it absolutely sews up with stoppers and small to medium cams. Great route.

Great climb on the great rock at Dairy Queen wall. The pro was tricky because the crack flares a bit. My first 5.7 crack lead in the park, definitely a route I will remember. After the climb rap to the left then TR the 5.9 face climb Hot Fudge. Enjoy.

Excellent quality splitter hand crack. Fun and sustained.

Sustained 5.7 climb from start to finish. This is "Frack" climbing- a crack that has prominent face features allowing you to face climb rather than crack climb it in some or most places. It has solid small and medium nut placements all the way. HB Offsets and small hexes work perfectly. Bring some 2-3" cams for the belay or top rope set up. The rap station is two 1/2" bolts with shuts(term) rather than bolt hangers with chains. The downclimb though the chimney to the climbers right is another way to get down. But it is a downclimb not a walkoff. This route is in the shade by the noonish.

Quality rock and fun crack climbing.

Sustained. almost every move is 5.7

Fun route. Lots of big face holds the whole way and good protection in the crack. Maybe a 5.7, but definitely not 5.8. Double cross and White Lightning are way harder.

A bit pumpy if you climb it inefficiently. Another good one for the novice leader if they don't mind a bit of a pump.

Yet another fine example of the inconsistency of ratings at Josh. I must be a weakling with no crack climbing technique, but I sure think this was harder than some of the other 5.7 cracks I've led at Josh. I'd suggest that this route has a rating of 5.8. I wouldn't suggest this for a new leader.

Climbed this fun route today. Agree that it's sustained 5.7, and harder than many 5.7 climbs in the park. If it weren't so close to vertical, it would be 5.7 without all the discussion about it being a sandbag. For comparison, I'd say that though short, this is a harder lead than Double Cross, Mental Physics, or any of the other 5.7's on DQ wall. Not much like Sail Away, but I felt about as insecure leading this route as I did on Sail Away. I am not a strong 5.8 leader (yet!).

It was fun, but not a classic. It is easy to protect with nuts. Try protecting the top of Bills Nuts before you complain about the flaring nature of this route!

I would also not call this a "splitter." When I think of splitter, I think of a crack that's a split in the rock, not a crack like this that is shallow and mildly flaring.

5.8 for sure

Dear Mr Misty Kiss,
you were my first climb outside ever, and you were hard.
Thanks.

Felt this to be harder than cake walk. Maybe a tad harder than hands off. Not a lot of crack climbing besides the last 15 feet. I felt it protected alright but not great and all the holds were really slippery! Hand jams were my only rests...

Definitely the hardest "5.7" lead I've ever done in J Tree; Harder than Sail Away, Breakfast of Champions, Nurn's Romp, Mental Physics, etc. Sustained and not a lot of rests. There's a single bolt with quicklink 20ft to climber's right for rappelling off the wall.

There's a single bolt with quicklink 20ft to climber's right for rappelling off the wall.

That is some pretty suspect advice. That "single" bolt is not for rapping off of, and the down climb takes about 3 minutes.

rock was ice cold, made the climbing that much more intense with numb hands. harder than frosty cone.