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 ADVANCED
Bolt Slab
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Chimney Route T,TR 
Dance of the Pregnant Wildebeest T,TR 
Dazed and Refused T 
Double Jam T,TR 
Meadow Muffin S,TR 
Sky Hook T 
Two to Tango T,TR 
Two-Nut Muffin T 

Meadow Muffin 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, TR, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Miller and Ward, 1976
Page Views: 2,402
Submitted By: Richard M. Wright on Jul 30, 2003

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (9)
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Rest!

Description 

I'll probably roast for giving a clip-up like this three stars, but I'll never forget getting on it in 1985 or 1986 for the first time and loving it. For whatever reason, we had decided that this was the day to try and find out what the big boys were doing. But how to do that without getting totally waxed by the route? Grapevine beta and a hand-drawn xerox were the ticket to the world's safest bolt ladder, and we had no end of praise for the guys who had stitched it up.

Laboratory safe 5.12 climbing on crisp edges awaits the timid and faint of heart. A burn through Meadow Muffin a few years ago suggested that most of the climbing was actually middle 5.11, perhaps cruxy down low, but highly continuous.

If you are busting into 5.12, I can't imagine a better clip-up to do it on. What a gas!

Protection 

10 modern bolts plus 4 old quarter-inchers. It isn't necessary to clip the old bolts if leading this free.

Chain anchors.

Location 

Meadow Muffin is on the west face of the Bolt Slab.


Photos of Meadow Muffin Slideshow Add Photo
Looking East at the Bolt Slab.
BETA PHOTO: Looking East at the Bolt Slab.
Jug, Lee, jug! From our aid adventures on Meadow Muffin.
Jug, Lee, jug! From our aid adventures on Meadow M...

Comments on Meadow Muffin Add Comment
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By Lee Jensen
Sep 27, 2005

Many of the bolts on this route are old and manky. Most look like homemade hangers. There are also a couple bolt heads sticking a quarter inch out of the rock without any hangers at all. However, the chain anchors at the top are solid.

This is a great route to practice aid climbing up a bolt ladder. Even if you are really tall you will need to place a couple pieces to get past some spots.

It is really easy to set up a top rope on this route. Scramble to the base then climb the 5.3 crack on the right for a couple moves.
By Tristan Higbee
From: Cambodia
Dec 4, 2008

I aided up this for I think the third or fourth time a couple days ago. The bolt between bolts 5 and 6 is smashed and doesn't have a hanger. Even when topstepping I couldn't get past it to the next bolt. So I used a bomber BD Cliffhanger hook placement. On TR that part went at 5.8 or so on really good edges.
By Christian "crisco" Burrell
From: PG, Utah
Mar 12, 2009

I guess the bolts are such a part of the history of this route that nobody will ever replace them...
By Neeson
Jun 18, 2010

I replaced several bolts about 12 years ago- mostly on the lower (crux) part of the climb, as well as a few higher on the route, to make it safer. The old 1/4" bolts gave me the willies.
By Brian Koralewski
From: Springville, Utah
May 24, 2012
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

At the 10th bolt, with a large flake to the left, you can lunge out right to the "Electric Ladyland" crack. I wonder if this is consistent with the original route: "a traverse to a pin up high is followed by finger locks leftward, to the top." The pin is no longer there, but doesn't seem like it would be needed anyway.
By jacobb
Aug 23, 2012

Fun fun climb! Crux is at the bottom. Incorporate an underling to right of second bolt with high right foot to stand into foot hand lock off! Amazing feeling when you get into it. Becomes super easy!