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Good Medicine Area

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Adore T,S 
Bear Dance, The S 
Black Elk S 
Chocolate Moose T 
Dream Catcher S 
Fire Water S,TR 
Forgotten Warrior S 
Ghost Dance S 
Good Medicine S 
I Am Haunted S 
Indian Summer S 
Legend, The S 
Medicine Man S 
Moon Stone S 
Peace Treaty S 
Ruthie Boulder 
Sacred Hoop S 
Spirit Guide S 
Sun Dog S,TR 
Tomahawk in the Back S 
Tribal Warfare S 
Vision Quest S 
Wind Walker S 
Wounded Knee S 
Unsorted Routes:

Good Medicine Area Rock Climbing 

Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 40.73091, -110.87835 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 37,424
Administrators: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Andrew Gram on Aug 19, 2004  with updates from drock3
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New stairs on West side of Good Medicine

Located in a National Forest Fee Area MORE INFO >>>


This wonderful quartzite crag has mostly sport routes, but also the occasional trad and mixed route. All routes are single pitch with a good mix of grades from 5.7 to 5.12, and beautiful views of the High Uintah.

Getting There 

Park at the signed parking area for the trail to Ruth Lake, which is several miles past the top of Baldy Pass. Hike up the good trail to a cairned junction. Take the climber's trail left over some quartzite slabs to a short talus field. No bushwhacking is required, and the approach takes about 20 easy minutes. Good Medicine Wall is the first major wall the trail comes to.

Climbing Season

Weather station 15.7 miles from here

24 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',12],['2 Stars',10],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Good Medicine Area

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Good Medicine Area:
Peace Treaty   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   
Chocolate Moose   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   
Black Elk   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   
Sacred Hoop   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 60'   
Indian Summer   5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 65'   
Tribal Warfare   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 55'   
Tomahawk in the Back   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 75'   
The Bear Dance   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 40'   
The Legend   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   
Wounded Knee   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, 65'   
Medicine Man   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   
I Am Haunted   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 45'   
Moon Stone   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   
Forgotten Warrior   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 55'   
Wind Walker   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   
Dream Catcher   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport   
Good Medicine   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   
Ghost Dance   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Sport, 40'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Good Medicine Area

Featured Route For Good Medicine Area
Rock Climbing Photo: Ellie on Black Elk.  Great climb!

Black Elk 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a  UT : Uinta Mountains : ... : Good Medicine Area
Black Elk is a good enough reason to drive all the way down the Mirror Lake Hwy and take the 20 min hike to the Ruth Lake Crag. It has an interesting, balancy beginning, followed by a bouldery crux, onto an exposed face. The rock has good friction, the holds are positive, and the pro is place a safe, sane distance....[more]   Browse More Classics in UT

Photos of Good Medicine Area Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Good Medicine Area.  Good views are the other way....
BETA PHOTO: Good Medicine Area. Good views are the other way....
Rock Climbing Photo: good medicine area on left, last stand wall right....
BETA PHOTO: good medicine area on left, last stand wall right....

Comments on Good Medicine Area Add Comment
Show which comments
By Lee Gitlin
Aug 21, 2004
Sigh.... So the secret is out now on what I consider to be the single best climbing crag out there.

Imagine, a beautiful alpine setting, out of the heat and smog of SLC. When it's 105 in the valley, it's 75 at Ruth Lake. You will be belaying in your fleece in August here, since the crag stays in the shade.

And the routes! 24 climbs on this wall and nothing sucks. Everything is well protected with new hardware. In fact, there are at least three, 3-star routes, all of them good enough by themselves to make the trip.

You may find it a bit crowded, since the Uinta Rock guide by Smith and Tusting is available. This great guide has actual photos of all the crags -- no looking at line drawings and guessing about routes.

By Brandon Ashby
From: Kamas, UT
Aug 27, 2013
Ruth Lake is a very special place. I smile more climbing here than any place in Utah. It is really worth the drive for you Salt Lake kids(I live 30 minutes away so I'm spoiled). Please keep the area clean and leave your cottonwood canyon attitudes at home, just come climb hard and enjoy the tranquil space.

I was up here last weekend and want to thank the folks who we saw working hard to improve the landings and approaches in the Good Medicine area. Wish I caught your names, I want to help out the next time you are in the area for improvements. Please email me!
By Boissal
From: Small Lake, UT
Aug 27, 2013
What's a Cottonwood Canyon attitude?
By Brandon Ashby
From: Kamas, UT
Aug 30, 2013
Too cool for school.
By zoso
Aug 30, 2013
That's your answer? I'm lost. But then I'm no PhD.

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