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Good Medicine Area

Utah > Northeast Utah > Uinta Mountains > Ruth Lake
Warning Access Issue: Located in a National Forest Fee Area DetailsDrop down

Description

This wonderful quartzite crag has mostly sport routes, but also the occasional trad and mixed route. All routes are single pitch with a good mix of grades from 5.7 to 5.12, and beautiful views of the High Uintah.

Getting There

Park at the signed parking area for the trail to Ruth Lake, which is several miles past the top of Baldy Pass. Hike up the good trail to a cairned junction. Take the climber's trail left over some quartzite slabs to a short talus field. No bushwhacking is required, and the approach takes about 20 easy minutes. Good Medicine Wall is the first major wall the trail comes to.

Routes from Left to Right

5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 6
● Adore
Trad, Sport
5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
 4
● Spirit Guide
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 132
● Good Medicine
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 26
● Vision Quest
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 166
● Sacred Hoop
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 81
● Dream Catcher
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 63
● Wind Walker
Sport
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 116
● Moon Stone
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 351
● Black Elk
Sport
5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
 10
● White Man's Burden
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 12
● Chocolate Moose
Trad
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 79
● The Bear Dance
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 86
● Ghost Dance
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 68
● Unknown
Sport
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 102
● Indian Summer
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 58
● Medicine Man
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 69
● I Am Haunted
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 91
● Tribal Warfare
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 70
● Wounded Knee
Sport
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
 6
● Late to the Prom
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 197
● The Legend
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 44
● Forgotten Warrior
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 233
● Peace Treaty
Sport
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 137
● Fire Water
Sport, TR
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 144
● Sun Dog
Sport, TR
V? ?
 3
● Ruthie Boulder
Boulder
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
● Adore
 6
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad, Sport
● Spirit Guide
 4
5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a Sport
● Good Medicine
 132
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
● Vision Quest
 26
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
● Sacred Hoop
 166
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
● Dream Catcher
 81
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
● Wind Walker
 63
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
● Moon Stone
 116
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Sport
● Black Elk
 351
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
● White Man's Burden
 10
5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 Trad
● Chocolate Moose
 12
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
● The Bear Dance
 79
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
● Ghost Dance
 86
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
● Unknown
 68
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
● Indian Summer
 102
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
● Medicine Man
 58
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
● I Am Haunted
 69
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
● Tribal Warfare
 91
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
● Wounded Knee
 70
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
● Late to the Prom
 6
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c Sport
● The Legend
 197
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
● Forgotten Warrior
 44
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
● Peace Treaty
 233
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
● Fire Water
 137
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport, TR
● Sun Dog
 144
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport, TR
● Ruthie Boulder
 3
V? ? Boulder

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Caroline walking out after a splendid day climbing.
[Hide Photo] Caroline walking out after a splendid day climbing.
New stairs on West side of Good Medicine
[Hide Photo] New stairs on West side of Good Medicine
good medicine area on left, last stand wall right.
[Hide Photo] good medicine area on left, last stand wall right.
Good Medicine Area. Good views are the other way...
[Hide Photo] Good Medicine Area. Good views are the other way...
Saturday morning send fest... <br> Late July, 2023
[Hide Photo] Saturday morning send fest... Late July, 2023
Good Medicine Area 6/2020
[Hide Photo] Good Medicine Area 6/2020

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Lee Gitlin
[Hide Comment] Sigh.... So the secret is out now on what I consider to be the single best climbing crag out there.

Imagine, a beautiful alpine setting, out of the heat and smog of SLC. When it's 105 in the valley, it's 75 at Ruth Lake. You will be belaying in your fleece in August here, since the crag stays in the shade.

And the routes! 24 climbs on this wall and nothing sucks. Everything is well protected with new hardware. In fact, there are at least three, 3-star routes, all of them good enough by themselves to make the trip.

You may find it a bit crowded, since the Uinta Rock guide by Smith and Tusting is available. This great guide has actual photos of all the crags -- no looking at line drawings and guessing about routes.

Aug 21, 2004
Brandon Ashby
Kamas, UT
[Hide Comment] Ruth Lake is a very special place. I smile more climbing here than any place in Utah. It is really worth the drive for you Salt Lake kids(I live 30 minutes away so I'm spoiled). Please keep the area clean and leave your cottonwood canyon attitudes at home, just come climb hard and enjoy the tranquil space.

I was up here last weekend and want to thank the folks who we saw working hard to improve the landings and approaches in the Good Medicine area. Wish I caught your names, I want to help out the next time you are in the area for improvements. Please email me! Aug 27, 2013
Boissal .
Small Lake, UT
[Hide Comment] What's a Cottonwood Canyon attitude? Aug 27, 2013
Brandon Ashby
Kamas, UT
[Hide Comment] Too cool for school. Aug 30, 2013
zoso
[Hide Comment] That's your answer? I'm lost. But then I'm no PhD. Aug 30, 2013