A ridiculously well bolted pitch with generally great holds and fun movement. You start down low in a short but hard dihedral with three bolts in the first 12 or so feet of climbing.
After that, romp up the rest of this extremely long route on great holds with good feet, carefully managing your body position to avoid getting pumped. Don't let your guard down though, there are one or two moves on this that are a little awkward despite the generally high quality climbing.
There are a lot of bolts on this one, so you wind up being able to backclean two or three draws pretty easily. There is one bolt near the top when you hit the big layback flake that is pretty far off route to the right. The falls are safe and the climbing secure so I skipped it. You're risking a fairly big whip but it seems less scary than traversing to the bolt.
Good first 11a for a gym climber well versed in big holds on slightly overhanging terrain. Not terribly technically difficult, mostly a fitness check, and definitely onsightable.
First route to the right of Blackened. Look for the short little dihedral with two bolts within a few feet of each other.
14 bolts but you can backclean two or three pretty easily and you'll probably want to skip one in particular if you can handle it.
|By Andy Laakmann|
From: Bend, OR
Sep 18, 2011
Great route. Long, pumpy, and fun!
|By richard magill|
Jun 28, 2012
Pretty fun route! The whole thing suffers from a general sheen of near-chossiness, but everything held together and the moves were really fun. Nice long overhanging jughaul.
|By another Chad|
Feb 18, 2013
This route has 15 bolts not 14 as stated above and in Watts' book. Backcleaning is possible at various spots and helps with the rope drag. Using slings on a few of the outlying bolts will help with the drag too. A 60m rope will just get you down.
It isn't a very aesthetic line but the climbing is quite fun.
Oct 21, 2013
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Way overbolted, with some weird bolt placements as well.
From: Bend, Or.
May 30, 2014
Fun moves, long and pumpy. But some of those holds and flakes flex quite a bit. Something is eventually gonna come loose and it won't be good, for climber or belayer....