Pitch 1: Start on the right/west end of the North face, linking small weaknesses to a big ledge at 180+ feet. Build a belay and/or move belay around the corner 50 feet to the right.
Pitch 2: Climb a large left facing corner, staying left below steep roofs....a very smooth slab section is mastered using holds on the right and a long reach. Belay on obvious nice ledge.
Pitch 3: Start by climbing either of two left angling cracks for about 25 feet (fingers on the right, thin hands on the left)....avoid large roof by moving right along a nice shelf/flake (long slings to avoid rope drag!!)....then straight up steeper rock/crack to large shale covered ledge (sling sharp edged boulder for belay).
Pitch 4: Scramble left along the ledge (loose shale!!), and climb 50 feet to summit (sling boulder to belay).
To descend: From the boulders atop the route, scramble south along the shale ridge towards the true summit, and then angle down a nice ramp to the left (east) to a group of pine trees. Three single rope rappels off nice, live pine trees reaches the scree at the base of the northeast face.
I placed lots of cams, from #0 TCU to #2 Camalot, and the occaisional nut. You'll want plenty of long runners, and some very long slings/cordellette for belays (slung flakes). Only some loose rock keeps this from being a 3 star classic!!
|By Mark Michaels|
From: Draper, UT
Aug 26, 2004
I would call the first pitch 5.7, while the 2nd and 3rd pitches are easily 5.8, with the opportunity for 5.9 variations on the North Face.It would nice to have some fixed gear at belays on this route.While all-clean alpine routes are of course preferred in wilderness areas, the slung blocks and flakes used for belays on this route have very sharp edges, and there aren't many solid gear placements to be had!
Gear wise, I took a 3 Camalot, and only used it once, in a belay. Wished I'd had a second #2! Micro cams were essential. Finally, make sure to be off the Sundial before the weather turns bad! We got off just in time!
As a side comment....check out the Northwest face of Superior peak from the Sundial!Hoo daddy, now that's a nice looking wall!!!
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Jul 30, 2006
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c
The FA's had a good eye on this one. Excellent rock, killer exposure, sweet views and cool temps definitely make this a Wasatch 3 star mountain classic.
Standard rack (micro cams help) with some extra webbing-for belays & raps.
From: Salt Lake City
Jul 7, 2010
I had the opportunity to follow Mike Kaserman (UMA guide) up this route last Saturday. It was a great climb! I could go on and on, but I'll spare you.
Rock fall was a major hazard on the pitch that goes under and around the huge roof. There was a lot of loose stuff there and it consisted of big huge death blocks ready to go. Also, interestingly, it was at the start of this and the second pitch where some warm layers were needed, even on a typical hot summer Utah day.
Don't forget to bring a brimmed hat on this climb in addition to your sun glasses! It would be prudent to bring replacement slings for the rappels too, if needed. Mike told me that he and Tyson didn't have much luck rappeling to the West from the top. Rappel to the East.
Sep 18, 2010
This is a great route! I followed the beta photo with pitches outlined in yellow on this mountain project page. 1st and 2nd pitches (initial pitches up to large ledge) were pretty straight forward for alpine - a slung block about 100ft up off the ground and a piton w/ webbing about 130ft off the ground.
The third pitch (crux) is definitely 5.8 w/ technical slab moves and needs microcams! Unless you are solid at 5.10 slab, don't forget the pro, because it would be a runout. The rock leading up the slab section is loose as hell, but easy w/ few choices for solid placements.
The Fourth pitch, which climbs some finger cracks up and right to an arete, is undoubtedly the best pitch. Probably goes at 5.7+ and eats up gear. If rope drag doesn't get you then run it to the top and find the mess of slings/static rope that are slung around a block.
Descent: you can rap from several trees on the ledge of the east side of sundial peak. If you choice the first tree w/ visible slings - it leads to a ledge approx. 100ft below not trees. There is a boulder about 50ft climbers left with slings that will get you to another tree and finally the ground.
Sep 19, 2010
First Winter ascent?
Jim Dockery & Lynn Wheeler late 70's
From: Salt Lake City
Sep 25, 2010
I got to climb this again yesterday, thanks to Fast Eddie. I should revise one statement I made about this climb earlier in the season and it's the statement about needing a brimmed hat. I'm no astrologer, but I think that the sun arcs across the sky higher in the Spring and Summer than in the Fall and Winter. Consequently, in the Spring, the sun was in our face for most of the climb. Yesterday, a Fall day, Fast Eddie and I didn't see the sun all day until we reached the top. And by the way, it was also very cold being in the shadow of the mountain. We were both glad to have broughten extra layers.
From: SL UT
Sep 25, 2010
I'm a cancer... Whats your sign?
|By jason malczyk|
From: General Delivery
Sep 29, 2010
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c
A 60m rope makes it down in two raps from the far rap station. The second rap comes about 5 feet short but is a easy down climb. There is a third rap staion for 50m rope to take three raps.
|By Tristan Higbee|
Jun 8, 2012
Classic. I finally climbed this thing today and loved it. I started the first pitch too far to the left but eventually made it to the big ledge and the normal upper pitches. The rock on the route was a lot better than I thought it would be and the webbing at all rap stations was in good shape.
I took cams to #3 (with doubles on the .75, 1, and 2 pieces), a set of nuts, and a few micro cams. It was perfect and it's what I'll take when, not if, I do it again.
From: Bountiful, UT
Jun 18, 2012
Got this route yesterday with all of my Utah Outsider buddies. This route still has me smilling. I can't wait to go climb it again and lead the pitches that I didn't get to. My partner and I did the whole thing with a set of C4's and Nuts. Everyone on this page seems to think that micro's are a must have.. not true. I lead the crux slab on the 3rd and it was easily protected with just a standard set of nuts and C4's. Passive Pro all the way.
|By Jentry Miskin|
Aug 24, 2012
| || Dave working the crux dihedral |
This climb is gorgeous! Here's my quick beta. We followed the image with yellow pitches drawn from mtnproject, thanks.
1st pitch - several start points, any of them kind of led to the same place. Placement is solid with several options for belay (slings on boulder, tree, p-ton).
2nd pitch - short pitch to large ledge with massive sling set for belay (webbing was in great shape)
3rd pitch - crux pitch up some very scary loose rocks on the first half. Check each rock before placing gear. Second half is a dihedral with small nut placement. I used only nuts on this pitch and it was great. This is also the grave site of my GoPro as it lies in 400 pieces at the bottom of the pitch. RIP.
4th pitch - awesome finger crack climbing with an exposed arÍte towards the top and large feature climbing. There's a really cool lie-back in the white section of rock during this pitch. Used almost the entire rack to finish a 55m pitch to the top. Top belay is slung with webbing also in great condition.
Descent - thanks to whomever left the rock cairns. They led us right to the belay on the east face. Beware of rock fall during the rappel.
Rack - Set of cams up through #3 with double #1's, #.75's, and #.5's, and two Omega cams. Full set of nuts including doubles or triples for smaller nuts.
Oct 2, 2012
Great route! As others have said, just a wee bit nippy on a nice 80 degree fall day in the valley. The amount of mtn goat crap near the rappels was impressive to say the least... route finding on final pitch is interesting, be careful. "Crux" pitch protects with small nuts, and is a one move type deal..
Oct 6, 2012
Eek - high of 60 in the valley today = numb fingers and toes on this climb. Fun route, standard rack, and unlike the description, only 7 hours car to car for us.
|By Garret Nuzzo-Jones|
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Jun 3, 2013
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c PG13
Fantastic route. No reason to rate this any less than four stars.
Protection on the first pitch and parts of the second were runout to nonexistent. If you don't feel comfortable climbing 20 feet above your last good placement you might want to reconsider. Fortunately the climbing is straightforward. On pitch 3 I wasn't exactly sure where to go. Wasn't very interested in taking a 20+ foot fall so most of the way up the "slab" I reached over to pull the edge of the arete. My follower tried doing the dihedral on the right and found it to be tougher than 5.8. Looks like the arete could be followed up almost the whole way but might not be protectable for 30+ feet. Pitch 4 felt like strong 5.8 with a tenuous layback to start off the pitch. People with normal to small hands can probably get solid jams there. If you did Gordon's Hangover and the upper flake felt good to you then this crack probably will too.
Tristan Higbee's pro recommendation is spot on. Only needed one #3. Might've been able to squeak by without it too.
Rappel stations can be a bit tricky to find. We rapped off a massive dead tree that is closer to the summit ridge than the live trees. This worked, but I believe there is another live tree further past this on the ledge. You can traverse over after going off the dead tree and end up at the normal rap stations however.
Jun 9, 2013
Highly recommend this route! Rachel and I climbed this route yesterday part of our link up on the Central Spur (5.10) Central Spur of Dromedary Peak . All the beta above is good and many different ways to go up the first pitch
This route has really good rock and has been clean. Not much rock fall hazard on this route.
Descent: There are cairns leading the towards large dead tree. There is another cairn 50ft past the dead tree. if you walk another 50ft on the talus there is a large alive tree that you can rap off with slings. 3 single rope rappels get you down. We took a 50m rope and made it work but a 60m would be much better.