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Bolt Slab
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Chimney Route T,TR 
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Double Jam T,TR 
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Two to Tango T,TR 
Two-Nut Muffin T 

Double Jam 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8- French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 14 British: VS 4c [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 838
Submitted By: Jason Billings on Jul 3, 2005

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BETA PHOTO: Double Jam

Description 

This is a great little route usually offering shade from the afternoon sun. It can be easily viewed by looking up while standing in front of The Kitchen.

Belay from the ground, or there is another ledge that can be acquired by making two 5.5 moves. However, this ledge is small enough that it would require an anchor to be built. After this ledge the wall slopes out and the holds are funny; it takes about two or three moves to get through it. This is the definite crux; the rest of the climb is significantly easier, but still very good.

Protection 

Take a full rack with you. Although this route isn't long we placed everthing from nuts to medium sized cams.


Photos of Double Jam Slideshow Add Photo
Bolt Slab North Face
BETA PHOTO: Bolt Slab North Face
Andrew Stireman coming up <em><a href='/v/double-jam/105741683'>Double Jam</a></em>.
Andrew Stireman coming up Double Jam.

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By Skat B
From: Down Rodeo
Jul 28, 2012
rating: 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c

I mostly used the right crack for jamming and the left crack for gear. I used 4 #.3 C4s, 1 #.4 C4, 1 #.75 C4, and a red #1 C3 near the top. This route really takes all sizes and I could have easily used #4 C4 in several places. Long runners/slings definitely will help reduce rope drag!