Home - Destinations - iPhone/Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New
Login with Facebook
Bolt Slab
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Chimney Route 
Dance of the Pregnant Wildebeest 
Dazed and Refused 
Double Jam 
Meadow Muffin 
Sky Hook 
Two to Tango 
Two-Nut Muffin 

Double Jam 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c

Type: Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 758
Submitted By: Jason Billings on Jul 3, 2005
Good Page?0 people like this page. Your opinion:   

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (10)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
BETA PHOTO: Double Jam

Add Photo Add Comment    Printer View


This is a great little route usually offering shade from the afternoon sun. It can be easily viewed by looking up while standing in front of The Kitchen.

Belay from the ground, or there is another ledge that can be acquired by making two 5.5 moves. However, this ledge is small enough that it would require an anchor to be built. After this ledge the wall slopes out and the holds are funny; it takes about two or three moves to get through it. This is the definite crux; the rest of the climb is significantly easier, but still very good.


Take a full rack with you. Although this route isn't long we placed everthing from nuts to medium sized cams.

Photos of Double Jam Slideshow Add Photo
Bolt Slab North Face
BETA PHOTO: Bolt Slab North Face
Andrew Stireman coming up <em><a href='/v/double-jam/105741683'>Double Jam</a></em>.
Andrew Stireman coming up Double Jam.
Comments on Double Jam Add Comment
Show which comments
By Skat B
From: Down Rodeo
Jul 28, 2012
rating: 5.8- 5b 16 VI- VS 4c

I mostly used the right crack for jamming and the left crack for gear. I used 4 #.3 C4s, 1 #.4 C4, 1 #.75 C4, and a red #1 C3 near the top. This route really takes all sizes and I could have easily used #4 C4 in several places. Long runners/slings definitely will help reduce rope drag!