Morrison is a classic Front Range bouldering area. It's likely best known for the problems in The Lobby and Black Hole, on the cliffside north of town. Here one will find a hardman's delight, offering a number of classic problems, linkups, and eliminations at V5 and above. Most problems tackle greasy slopers with a few wicked crimps interspersed. North Morrison receives high traffic, which is good and bad. The area is dirty and polished. However, here one can receive a gym like workout, on real rock, in an encouraging atmosphere. Everyone knows your name, or at least the beta. I know there is alternative, quality bouldering around Morrison that climbs actual boulders. Having never climbed them, I'll depend on others to add this to the site.
Getting There
Easy. From Boulder, take CO 93 to Golden, US Highway 6 to C-470 heading South, and get off 5-10 minutes later at Morrison. Take a right after exiting. One can also take a right just past Golden on Heritage Rd, which becomes a highway that goes by Red Rocks and spits you out into Morrison on the west side. From Denver, take US 285 to C-470, then head north the the Morrison exit, and take a left into town.
The Classics
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Morrison Boulders:
Start out matched on the low sloping rail. Figure out how to get your ass off the ground, and reach up high with your right for the crimp/pinch. Move up to the next crimp, and reposition the feet to move up to the slopey jugs above. From here, you keep moving straight out the prow of the arete, using a large rail on the north face of the boulder. Move the feet up, and figure out how to hit the lip with your left. After that it's pretty much over@...[more]Browse More Classics in CO
The people I climb with and have met at Morrison recognize the area for what it is - a dirty grotto that gives you a chance to have a solid workout on real rock. For myself it's not too much different than a gym, but at least it's outside. Futher, you can climb comfortably at Morrison when it's practicly snowing. While many problems are contrived, last time I checked they have been recognized as such on this site. It's not like you dip shits are offering any new information.
I understand the idea that the locals take the climbing too seriously. But I hope anyone who says that has never spent too much time climbing in a gym - the point being, everyone takes their silly climbing interests too seriously. Morrison is what it is. Some enjoy it and obviously others don't. Little pricks who have problems with that don't impress anybody except themselves.
Stick it to them Quinn, Morrison is agreat place to hang out and have a good time. It has some great problems if you have the beta, maybe I like it so much because it's 3 minutes from my house but that is beside the point. If you know what your looking for and like to climb with some cool, friendly folks Morrison is the place to be, if not don't complain about how you don't like it and just go somewhere else.
Quinn and Nate, You guys are right on. Morrison is an outdoor gym with a high level of hard problems in a concentrated area, that's what makes it great. Schmidty
What the hell! The comment up top attributed to me is not mine. I just happened to stumble upon this, appearantly anyone can scroll down and use someone else's name. For the record I bouldered there consistantly through the first half of the 90's. Before gyms this was a great place to develop contact strength; and there are many classic- albeit ancient- problems every local climber should be familiar with. As to the a-hole who used my name for that pompous statement up top, grow some hair on your balls and move out of your mom's basement.
I've been learning to climb at an indoor gym and would like to move things outside and try out some natural challenges. I live close to Morrison so can find it easy enough, but WHERE in Morrison exactly is it? I'm looking to do some easy boldering.
If coming from [Denver], take [Morrison] exit off of [C470]. take first right past the foothills. park in the first lot at the base of the foothills, climb up the hill, and find any area you want all along the whole backside of the foothill. I've done quite a few leads up random places that look like a nice challenge. there's not too many bolts anywhere...which is fine you just have to find your own way up. numerous possibilities, although any climbs are likely to be only at a low 5.8 5.9 level. sure if you want there's plenty of places to set up a top rope. it's a nice climbing area. good rock (granite?) not one of the most prime spots though. a lot more bouldering than anything.
For many years we had this place all to ourselves. When it was cold and snowy, the gang from Bolder came down. We put up most of the obvious stuff and had a real good time. It was our club! It's where we trained and met our adventurer partners. It was a great scene, and I hope that it still is.
I was looking around for the hill that leads up forever. When the four of us parked at the parking lot, just outside of the small town of Morrison, a block away from The Morrison Inn, we looked around for a trail.
We seen a very small trail to the left, and followed that until we ran into a little excavation site, went back, then tried going straight up. We stopped because we figured that there would be an obvious trail. Where is the trail up this hill, or were we at the wrong spot to go bouldering? Would anyone give detailed directions from this parking lot, please.
We ended up going all the way to Red Rocks, crossing over and doing that trail, looking for some rock to boulder... But there wasn't anything decent, especially something with a safe fall.
PbPaul: I believe you were asking where the main area to boulder at Morrison is; it is very straightforward and it sounds like you just missed it. Here is a map showing parking spots and where the two boulder areas are:
Best bet is to hook up with a local. There are hundreds of problems here, and many are very good quality. I have seen many people come and go, and miss several "used to be" locals. Anyway, I could not help but have a laugh regarding the above climbers inability to find " the bouldering ". Hope you have found them, and may your forearms last a good long time>
By jmeizis From: Colorado Springs, CO Jun 15, 2009
Left a nice new guidebook there today. It's either soaked in rain or somebody grabbed it already, but since I live in Colorado Springs I guess it's my donation to somebody. Maybe I shouldn't have tried to pick up trash because I only ended up leaving some of my own.
I went to Morrison about a month ago and don't plan on returning anytime soon. First of all, the problems are greasy to the max; the slopers are practically varnished. Second of all, it was so crowded I couldn't even get on anything. Everyone lets their three dogs run around, kick up dust and dig up whatever they want.
Secondly, the locals are dickheads. We got too many dirty looks to count from those assholes, and when I asked if I could try a problem in the Black Hole (there was a line) they simply ignored my request.
So basically, it's way crowded, stupid greasy, too close to the road, and the locals (who are supposedly very supportive) are a bunch of elite douchebags that wouldn't understand what climbing was about if it fell out of the sky and smacked them across the face.
So this is a message to all Morrison locals: YOU CAN HAVE THAT NOISY, GREASY PILE OF SHIT TO YOURSELF. YOU SUCK AT CLIMBING AND SO DOES YOUR AREA!
I checked out this guy's profile...there should be an age limit to contribute to this site.... Maybe your dad will buy you your own bouldering area....
Hey Helldorado, just cuz some 'local' treated you poorly at an area, doesn't mean the area sucks. And if you went there on a weekend, quit bitching, Morrison is soooo crowded on weekends in the winter. Many locals substitute Morrison for the lack of a gym on the westside of Denver, so it's like a gym, of course everything is greasy! It takes a particular style to climb here, which is an important style to develop for climbing progression. If you wanna try a prob, just try it, f*ck everyone just standing in the way and try it. Try to have fun climbing.
P.S.- I'm sorry for the way the 'locals' acted, but I doubt you climbed with any 'locals.' The people that come to Morrison on a regular basis are actually very friendly and helpful, they were probably Boulder Douches....