Type: Boulder
FA: unknown
Page Views: 12,925 total · 55/month
Shared By: Nate Weitzel on Jul 24, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route


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Description

This is the ultra classic of Morrison and the doorway to nearly all the hard routes in the Black Hole. This may be the hardest V5 that you will ever work and packs more beta into 12 feet of climbing than most other problems I know!!!

This is nearly impossible to describe, however, ask anyone that climbs at Morrison, and they will be able to give you a better idea. The original version starts on the left side of the Black Hole on a jug, and traverses into the sloping crux of Copter. Most people, however, opt for the following version: start sitting down with your left hand in a small pocket and your right on a miserable open hand hold. From here, toss with the left up to the flat face. Some nice foot beta will allow you move the right hand up to a sloping hold. A series of balancy and technical foot movements allows you to move the hands up, eventually to the sloping rail. From here, pull up, lock off and reach up with the left hand to a sloper in a crack. Some different foot variations allow you to do the final scary throw out right to a hidden hold, and follow this with another bump to the final hand jam hold and you are all finished. Of course, if you blow the last move you will discover how the problem gets it name. Consider a crash pad and spotter for this move.

Protection

Perhaps a bouldering pad and/or spotter.

Photos