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Routes in Rupture Cave

Rupture V6 7A R
Wood Hook V6-7 7A+ PG13
Type: Boulder, 10 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 6,383 total, 33/month
Shared By: Anonymous Coward on Dec 31, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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31 Opinions

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Description

It is a little tough to find, but it is worth it once you do. Start from the main area (Breashears' Crack), and head west up the trail. You will have to mount 3 large boulders while heading west. Once you reach the farthest west boulder (large and short), head south straight up the hill. You will see one arete that is pretty cool. Directly behind this is a large problem that has an A-shape. You start on underclings and head up a rail of perfect slopers. Then you either jump or reach for a perfect sloper out right. It then continues straight up the rock.

This is a superb problem. It is in a quasi-cave system and has ferns and such growing out the rock. The slopers are exquisite, and it is definitely a must do.

Protection

You will need multiple pads for this one. (Unless you are hardcore) The landing is high, uncontrolled and into a pit of spikey rocks.
Daniel Siegel
Portola, CA
  V6 PG13
Daniel Siegel   Portola, CA
  V6 PG13
Unfortunately, someone has graffitied the face of this problem and much of the surrounding cave. It does not affect the climbing too much, but it does take away from the asthetics. Given that it is sandstone, is there any way to remove the graffiti without seriously damaging the rock? I'd be happy to help! Oct 15, 2017
Arthur Wright
  V7- PG13
Arthur Wright  
  V7- PG13
Fantastic problem, everything about it is great. With a couple pads (and preferably a spotter to move them), the landing is totally safe but still a little scary.

Warning detailed beta below:

When I was first working out the rail, I got my right hand to the second sloper and came in to the first sloper with my left, then bumped right hand to the far crimp on the rail, and did some awkward match to get my left hand on it. This wastes a ton of energy and isn't very smooth--don't do this.

The way I eventually worked out was a lot smoother and saved power for the crux compression moves. From a left hand on the weird nub-jug thing (the good hold you get directly to the left before the rail), I went right hand out to the first chalked sloper, got my left foot set on the really good large edge down by the starting cracks, came in with my left hand to the good sidepull at the start of the rail, bumped my right hand to the second chalked sloper, and then got a high left foot on the good nub-jug thing and crossed my left hand to the scoop/crimp at the end of the rail.

From there, you can set your left heel high on the rail, and you are ready to go out right to the sloper and start the crux. I'll let you figure that out for yourself.

video: goo.gl/photos/Jq8SerVu3R9GW… Apr 11, 2016
This is the COOLEST boulder problem.
The perfect sloper on the right side is a little alarming at first, but by compressing against the pinch, it makes moving the heel up a lot easier.
I'd say, if you're a climber, you can do this. If you have a pair of shoes in the gym, maybe not.
V6ish and not height dependent. Mar 12, 2012
PTZ
Chicago/Colorado
PTZ   Chicago/Colorado
This problem has one of the best slopers I've ever felt. A perfect little cereal bowl upside down. I wouldn't see it harder than what is says V5-V7. Awesome hidden gem for the under traveled Mo. South. Dec 7, 2010
I like the variation on this problem right up the middle, its a great reach and a show up leap to the crimp. Its even better when you miss the hold and fall flat on your ribs, it just makes you look tough LOL. I love this problem, I wish there were more like it in the area. Sep 22, 2010
half-pad-mini-jug
crauschville
  V6-7 PG13
half-pad-mini-jug   crauschville
  V6-7 PG13
V7 at most, maybe hard V6, def. not V9.... Aug 24, 2010
I've been trying to figure out what this problem has been rated. Everyone is telling me V9. I personally don't see past the V6-7 mark, but hey that's just me. Aug 23, 2010
Andrew Vojslavek
  V6-7 PG13
Andrew Vojslavek  
  V6-7 PG13
After repeating this line I have done it two different ways. I think there are almost a grade difference between them.

Option 1- V7, after hitting the right most sloper, slapping right hand again is probably solid for the grade.

Option 2 - V6, hit the right most sloper and cross left hand over to the right hand side and then match. It is really a pretty awesome way of doing it, and is less conditions dependent.

Option 3 - Mantle, dang! That is pretty awesome. I am a short dude and was not capable of doing such a move, so nice job! Very cool, I echo Luke's sentiments and would love to see it go this way.

I saw my friend Marcelo doing rupture from a low right start, pretty cool, pretty hard. Marcelo is a wicked strong dude, and did not comment on the grade. I know he said he did not do it first, but a cool option if your friends are working on Rupture.

All in all, Rupture is one of the best climbs in the front range, and regardless of grade or way that you choose to do it, the simple fact remains, YOU MUST DO THIS LINE! IT IS SO GOOD!

Cheers
Andrew V,

If anyone wants to go to MoSo or get a tour let me know. Jun 28, 2009
Luke Childers
  V7 R
Luke Childers  
  V7 R
Nice Nate26!!
I was 1st trying to go up to the left crimp but could not make it work. That would be a sick mantel. I would love to see it go that way man. Cool!! What a great line! May 19, 2009
Nate26  
Maybe V6 for me - I did this promblem without the holds out right, just manteling the rail with a heel and pulling to the the good crimp - I could see it being hard with all the holds out right. Very good line though - a little piece of the southeast in CO. May 17, 2009
Luke Childers
  V7 R
Luke Childers  
  V7 R
This line will satisfy sloper happy danger nuts!! I will agree with many that the line is tough to grade. It does seem to be somewhat height dependent. I would say a good (V7). Compared to other stout problems in the Flatirons and else where I don't think I would call it (V8). It did not take me long to get the line and most solid (V8s) may take me a few visits. On the other hand, I don't think the line to be any easier. But man who the hell cares...? This line is so fun and the moves are just to fun to be true no matter the difficulty. Yes, do this line!!

The landing is not that bad if you take care with pad placement. I did this with one big pad and one 12 year old, regular-sized pad without any spotters and felt ok... at least for the hard moves.. The top is mellow and if you can work out the slopers to the blessed left crimp you should be fine during the top-out but use caution for sure.

I found that by securing my larger pad under the crux movers with a lager rock slung over the back of some of the slab/little rocks keep the pad from moving. So, when I did fall I just landed on the pad and slid down into a nice flat little dirt pit. Point I think the landing can be ok or really dangerous depending on your pad placement choices. May 15, 2009
half-pad-mini-jug
crauschville
  V6-7 PG13
half-pad-mini-jug   crauschville
  V6-7 PG13
This route is super-sick, but very scary.... I did it by myself and with one pad, which made the topout terrifying cuz of the landing, I would definitely recommend a couple pads and a good spotter. Burl!!! Nov 3, 2008
Andrew Vojslavek
  V6-7 PG13
Andrew Vojslavek  
  V6-7 PG13
Honestly Rupture for me is the must do line in Morrison Area. I know folks really like Ghost Dance, which I get its amazing, but Rupture is something different. It is not that hard, and the fall is okay. Its a landing like RMNP. As for the grade? Not sure did it with one head lamp, and a spotter. Hard moves are done no more than 13 feet in, the rest is heady. Oct 4, 2008
This boulder route is so sweet. Me and my climbing partner were over at Morrison doing Helicopter and what not in the Black Hole just sticking everything down. We started to leave and my partner was just like we should check out South Morrison. Holy cow, amazing that we did it was about 1130PM when we were there. So, Rupture was crazy. The dish is solid and then when you get that toe hook on the rail, holy crap, crank to the crimp to the left and just campus to the crimp up top above the Bubble Rock. Get in there deep and you will be like, What the heck, I lost my hand in this crimp from there top it out and enjoy the view. If you can try this at night, it's crazy. The view is amazing. Aug 27, 2008
Oh yeah, Rupture is so sweet! It is a bit better if you're taller, but still a little tough. Apr 5, 2004
Paul Hassett
Aurora CO
Paul Hassett   Aurora CO
The double arete is much lower down the hill than "Rupture". "Rupture" resides in one of the upper psuedo-caves that are part of the ridge. Jan 23, 2003
I thought this problem was called Double Arete(V6)? If it's the one I'm thinking of. It sounds like it. Tell me if I'm wrong. Jan 15, 2003
Paul Hassett
Aurora CO
Paul Hassett   Aurora CO
This problem is called "Rupture", and has been rated anywhere from V5 to V7. Personally, I believe the rating depends on the height of the individual doing the problem, and really comes down to whether you can dyno to the large sloping dish or just take it.

The problem "officially" begins as a sit-down start in the crack system, and immediately trends right on to the sloping rail. At the termination of the rail, one either takes, or dynos, to the beautiful dish, and then works straight up the face/left-hand prow to the top. Obviously, the crack to the right should be considered off, and I can attest to the relative ease of protection with one pad and a COMPETENT spotter.

Incidentally, there is another line on this block, that has been completed, albeit on TR. If you traverse the sloping rail to its termination and head up the left side of the face, you will find a crimp just out of reach. The trick is to really lock off on the last small dish on the sloping rail and reach very high. After that, attempt to not fall off of the rail, and convert your heel-hook to a foot and stand up. Once you are standing, the rest of the problem is pretty casual.

As mentioned beforehand, I have only done this on TR while we were cleaning this line and "Rupture", and would not recommend doing it without a team of spotters, and a bunch of pads. Instead of landing on the large slab beneath "Rupture", you will land somewhere to the left of it, in the jumble of rocks if you are lucky enough not to hit any of them.

If you feel so inclined to discuss S. Morrison aka "The Dark Side", please feel free to shoot me an email, as I was directly involved in the second phase (post Williams, etc.) development of that area, and can pretty much tell you whatever you would like to know about the area. One amusing side note, is that this area, much like many bouldering areas around Denver, seems to be constantly under development by the local neophyte boulderer. The problem "Rupture" has seen several "FAs" in the last couple of years that just aren't.

Please be extremely careful when bouldering in this area, CO NOT cut down any more trees, as the original developers made a concerted effort to leave certain ones around to retain the soil, provide shade, and not decimate the area - there are no tree over there currently that should get in your way, only stumps that some moron left that will jam you in the heels and lower back. Please pick up your trash, and if you see the a**hole with the shovel over there, feel justified in hitting him over the head with it, and give him an extra whack for me. Oct 25, 2002
This boulder problem is fantastic. My rough estimate is V6-V7. Landing is kind of freaky but should be manageable with enough pads and spotters. One of the best problems at Morrison South. Oct 3, 2002