Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Squirming Coil Area

Type: Boulder, 16 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 5,321 total, 44/month
Shared By: Jay Samuelson on Nov 10, 2007
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


59 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

Start out low on the right side of the arete, find the sweet spots, paste the feet and begin. Strenuous moves the whole way, continually just squeezing everything together. Eases up slightly toward the top, with a mild topout.

Location

Just down and right from Squirming Coil, there's a path that cuts down as you head up the trail.

Protection

A couple of pads, plus a good spotter would be nice on this one. If you blow it near the top, you might spin off onto the boulder to the left and have a fun slide down.

Photos

Cesar Valencia  
  V6
Im 5'5" with a square ape index. Yea felt V6 to me lol. Might feel super easy for the big folk. One of the best on the frontrange. I highly recommend trying it. 2 days ago
Tyson Ferryman
Bailey, CO
  V5
Tyson Ferryman   Bailey, CO
  V5
Seems as if the difficulty questions on this can be answered at the start of the problem. If you begin with the left on the low undercling/ sidepull, then it takes it down a notch, I believe. It's harder to begin with both hands on the arĂȘte, and move to the undercling, like Jay has pointed out.... Awesome! either way.... Aug 16, 2013
Matthew Thaler  
  V4
I could do this way before I could do Squirming Coil or any other V5 problems up here. V4 for me and a great problem. Mar 12, 2012
Jay Samuelson
Denver CO
 
Jay Samuelson   Denver CO
 
The sit start begins with both hands on the right side arete, making a few moves up and then left into the low undercling.

As for the grade, I posted this problem before I ever sent it, and didn't have a good idea of what the difficulty was. I based my opinion at the time on being able to do Squirming Coil but not this problem. Having come back to it now I think it's around V5 or so, and have changed the post accordingly. I wish it felt like V4! Dec 3, 2010
Squish
Lakewood
Squish   Lakewood
How low are you starting this problem? I'm assuming it is a sds. I am starting it with a low right hand on the arete and a left hand on a low low undercling/sidepull.... Jun 20, 2010
mikejohnson1 Johnson
Essex Junction, VT
  V4
mikejohnson1 Johnson   Essex Junction, VT
  V4
This problem can't be more than a V4. I am 5"8, and I can barely reach across, (which should give me a disadvantage)and I was able to put the lower section (crux) together in a few tries. This is not even close to normal for me on a V5.

That being said, it is a completely awesome burl-fest of a problem! Thanks for posting it. May 25, 2010
Andrew Vojslavek  
  V5
Said and G, I could see how it's probably a V5, the V4 confuses me. Perhaps since I originally did it in July with more than a few drinks in me it seemed harder, nevertheless, a good climb.

Cheers,
Andrew

Said ring me, let's climb! Jun 28, 2009
Said Parirokh
Redlands, Ca
  V4-5
Said Parirokh   Redlands, Ca
  V4-5
I also felt it was very soft for a V6. Felt much closer to the V4+ to V5- range. My climbing partner felt it was much harder as his wingspan barely reaches both aretes. It could be a height dependent problem, I am 5'8" with a +3 ape index. Jun 1, 2009
half-pad-mini-jug
crauschville
  V5
half-pad-mini-jug   crauschville
  V5
You climb the boulder using compression moves on both aretes... The slab to the left is obviously off for feet. Apr 17, 2009
GeoffElson Elson  
  V4
I am confused by this problem. The name is double arete so is it fair to assume the left arete is "on" for your left hand? I started the problem with both hands low on the right arete, then went really low with my left to a jug then on to the left arete and worked my left up the left arete and my right up the rigth arete . The confusion comes when doing the problem this way there is no way it is V5 or V6, am I doing it wrong or is the problem soft? Apr 2, 2009