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Routes in Squirming Coil Area

Type: Boulder, 10 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,625 total · 20/month
Shared By: Jay Samuelson on Nov 2, 2007
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


29 Opinions

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Description

There's two ways to do this problem; using the small boulder on the left for feet, or not. If you don't, it's probably V4+ or V5, if you do use it it's probably V2/V3ish. Start on the left side of the boulder, on the sloping rail and the pocket/hand jam/undercling feature, however you wish to use it. Tricky to keep the feet off the left side of the deihidral, but makes it much more interesting. Figure out a sequence to move along the rail to the right. Once you get to the middle/right side of the boulder, go straight up, don't finish the rail to the inside corner.

The hardest part of the climb is resisting the temptation to use the feet on the left, and figuring out how to climb around all the features that are 'off' around you. Obviously you can choose to climb it however you wish, but deciding to mark those features off made it much more difficult, and was fun to figure out how to make the moves.

Location

This is in the same area as Squirming Coil, basically the first 'cave' you come to on your left side heading up the trail. It's the north-facing boulder, making the back of the 'cave'.

Protection

A pad will do.

Photos

Jay Samuelson
Denver CO
  V4
Jay Samuelson   Denver CO
  V4
I would probably give this 3 stars if it wasn't dependent on 'avoiding' features. But overall I found the moves fun, tricky to figure out, and challenging. Technical and hard to keep the feet on. Good problem, IMHO. Nov 2, 2007
Jacob ward
Lakewood, Colorado
Jacob ward   Lakewood, Colorado
Really solid warm up. It's pretty easy to top out on, too. Landing is pretty good compared to other spots in the dark side, but it's possible to fall down the hill. Feb 10, 2011

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