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Double Arete

V5, Boulder, 16 ft (5 m),  Avg: 3.5 from 199 votes
FA: unknown
Colorado > Morrison/Evergr… > Morrison Boulders > Dark Side > Squirming Coil Area

Description

Start out low on the right side of the arete, find the sweet spots, paste the feet and begin. Strenuous moves the whole way, continually just squeezing everything together. Eases up slightly toward the top, with a mild topout.

Location

Just down and right from Squirming Coil, there's a path that cuts down as you head up the trail.

Protection

A couple of pads, plus a good spotter would be nice on this one. If you blow it near the top, you might spin off onto the boulder to the left and have a fun slide down.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

The God Elijah apeing up.
[Hide Photo] The God Elijah apeing up.
Getting my redpoint in the dark.
[Hide Photo] Getting my redpoint in the dark.
Starting to move up the squeeze problem in his boxers at night. :)
[Hide Photo] Starting to move up the squeeze problem in his boxers at night. :)
Grant bumping up the right arete while working this problem late on a summer night.
[Hide Photo] Grant bumping up the right arete while working this problem late on a summer night.
Squeeze.
[Hide Photo] Squeeze.
Double Arete.
[Hide Photo] Double Arete.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Geoff Elson
  V4
[Hide Comment] I am confused by this problem. The name is double arete so is it fair to assume the left arete is "on" for your left hand? I started the problem with both hands low on the right arete, then went really low with my left to a jug then on to the left arete and worked my left up the left arete and my right up the rigth arete . The confusion comes when doing the problem this way there is no way it is V5 or V6, am I doing it wrong or is the problem soft? Apr 2, 2009
half-pad-mini-jug
crauschville
  V5
[Hide Comment] You climb the boulder using compression moves on both aretes... The slab to the left is obviously off for feet. Apr 17, 2009
Said Pazirandeh
Bend, OR
  V4-5
[Hide Comment] I also felt it was very soft for a V6. Felt much closer to the V4+ to V5- range. My climbing partner felt it was much harder as his wingspan barely reaches both aretes. It could be a height dependent problem, I am 5'8" with a +3 ape index. Jun 1, 2009
[Hide Comment] Said and G, I could see how it's probably a V5, the V4 confuses me. Perhaps since I originally did it in July with more than a few drinks in me it seemed harder, nevertheless, a good climb.

Cheers,
Andrew

Said ring me, let's climb! Jun 28, 2009
mikejohnson1 Johnson
Essex Junction, VT
  V4
[Hide Comment] This problem can't be more than a V4. I am 5"8, and I can barely reach across, (which should give me a disadvantage)and I was able to put the lower section (crux) together in a few tries. This is not even close to normal for me on a V5.

That being said, it is a completely awesome burl-fest of a problem! Thanks for posting it. May 25, 2010
Squish
Lakewood
[Hide Comment] How low are you starting this problem? I'm assuming it is a sds. I am starting it with a low right hand on the arete and a left hand on a low low undercling/sidepull.... Jun 20, 2010
Jay Samuelson
Colorado
  V5
[Hide Comment] The sit start begins with both hands on the right side arete, making a few moves up and then left into the low undercling.

As for the grade, I posted this problem before I ever sent it, and didn't have a good idea of what the difficulty was. I based my opinion at the time on being able to do Squirming Coil but not this problem. Having come back to it now I think it's around V5 or so, and have changed the post accordingly. I wish it felt like V4! Dec 3, 2010
[Hide Comment] I could do this way before I could do Squirming Coil or any other V5 problems up here. V4 for me and a great problem. Mar 12, 2012
Tyson Ferryman
Bailey, CO
  V5
[Hide Comment] Seems as if the difficulty questions on this can be answered at the start of the problem. If you begin with the left on the low undercling/ sidepull, then it takes it down a notch, I believe. It's harder to begin with both hands on the arête, and move to the undercling, like Jay has pointed out.... Awesome! either way.... Aug 16, 2013
[Hide Comment] I'm 5'5" with a square ape index. Yeah, felt V6 to me, lol. Might feel super easy for the big folk. One of the best on the Front Range. I highly recommend trying it. Nov 18, 2017
[Hide Comment] Little beta video I filmed of my buddy Jason climbing Double Arete, V6. Check it out!
youtu.be/xm-SgsRBruQ Dec 8, 2017
Nik Vukovich
Denver, CO
Dylan Garey
Denver
  V4-5
[Hide Comment] Certainly a reach-dependent one. Don’t give too much weight to the grade. A good line... one of the most aesthetic Dark Side problems. Oct 22, 2019
Ben M
Dillon
 
[Hide Comment] This felt comparable to the Guanella Arete up Guanella Pass, (different area, I know) so I thought it was hard V5, soft V6. I am 6'4" and still found this a challenge. I only tried it during July and just sent yesterday, so I may find it easier in the winter. The last few moves were the crux for me, and I spit off a few times, slamming my hip into the slab on the left which actually hurt less than I expected and totally slowed me down, so I didn't roll down the hill. Get on this one. Very rewarding to stand on top and, if you fall, it's better than it looks. Jul 28, 2020
Dylan Garey
Denver
  V4-5
[Hide Comment] Repeat with OG right arete start. Adds a lil bit of early difficulty.... Aug 8, 2020
Sasha Oncley
Boulder
 
[Hide Comment] Video of the climb: youtu.be/T50iKPSDu2k. Jan 21, 2021
Josh Coppinger
CO
  V5+