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Routes in The Cube Area

Breashear's Crack II V3 6A
Deal Jams V1+ 5
Deal Jams Sit V5 6C
Done Deal Dyno V3 6A
From Here Or There V2 5+
God Created Crimps V5-6 6C+
In the Beginning V1 5
Southeast Arete V4 6B
Squeezed V3 6A
Type: Boulder, 19 ft
FA: [Breashears]
Page Views: 13,889 total, 72/month
Shared By: Chris Dawson on Feb 21, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

This is located on the "square block" about halfway up the hill. The block can be seen from the Black Hole directly above a large pine tree on the middle of the hillside. This problem is rad. The crux is the first 8-10 feet. It has really thin laybacks and jams. The upper half of the problem is easier but pretty highball. Unless you regularly onsight .11+ finger cracks, I'd recommend a pad. This is the crack up the center of the northwest face of the square block. There are problems up both aretes on either side of the face. I'm not sure who did the first ascent or if there are any cool historical facts about this one. This is one of my favorite boulder problems. It is worth every star.

Protection

Two crashpads and two spotters preferable. The problem is about 19 ft. high with a bad landing
tdziedzina
Golden
  V3
tdziedzina   Golden
  V3
Best V3 in the Front Range! Apr 7, 2016
Jason Antin
Golden, CO
  V3
Jason Antin   Golden, CO
  V3
The most dramatic video of a V3 you'll probably ever see - what a great little problem though!


youtube.com/watch?v=HkNFE39… Aug 20, 2015
Brett S.
Colorado
Brett S.   Colorado
What a killer problem! My pick for best V3 in Colorado. Just go climb it. Jul 28, 2015
WadeM
Golden, Co
  V3
WadeM   Golden, Co
  V3
Felt 11+ to me. Been on plenty of 11s in Eldo, and it's right on par. Compared to something like Gill Crack (12a), this is much easier....

With good crack technique, it's fun. Sep 16, 2014
chipacles
  V3-4 PG13
chipacles  
  V3-4 PG13
I haven't bouldered a whole lot, but this seemed very rough for V3 unless you're an awesome crack climber (which I'm not). If that crux were 40 feet up a climb, I'd expect it go at least 5.12a. Super aesthetic! Sep 20, 2013
MAKB
Potrero Chico, MEX
 
MAKB   Potrero Chico, MEX  
 
I would say it's hard for the grade but not necessarily a sandbag. Compare it to the Aid Crack on Cob Rock in Boulder Canyon (.10d), and I would think the rating is accurate. 2-3 letter grades seems about right. Sep 5, 2011
doug rouse
Denver, CO.
doug rouse   Denver, CO.
Uh..Yeah...IMHO a sandbag at V3. Would you give this only .11c/d if leading it? Nov 8, 2009
Monty
Golden, CO
 
Monty   Golden, CO  
 
This might be the hardest V3 I know... great problem, very asthetic. Mar 2, 2009
This is the most beautiful line I have ever seen, or climbed, literally the world's best V3. It may seem a bit burly until you hunker down on the finger locks and figure out the sequence. Aug 8, 2008
Bjorn
Leadvegas, CO
Bjorn   Leadvegas, CO
Now wouldn't the FA be David Breashears? Jul 19, 2008
Jason Kaplan
Glenwood ,Co
 
Jason Kaplan   Glenwood ,Co
 
Tried this for the first time today, last problem of the day so I wasn't full strength, I managed to work the moves till just above the flared off hands/ fingers section, where there is a good ledge 2-3 fingers deep. Right below where the flake section begins. I didn't have enough strength to get through to the next move as the feet really get in obvious and I was basically using my arms mostly.

Any advice?

Oh, I have some bring some freaking tape! I wish I did.
We had 5 pads and 1-3 spotters at a time which helped the mental factor.
Classic for sure, it will be a nice project for me. Feb 24, 2008
Jay Samuelson
Denver CO
  V3+
Jay Samuelson   Denver CO
  V3+
Great problem, great crack. Doesn't get much better than this. Last move is a little committing.... Jun 22, 2007
chris deulen
Castle Rock
  V3
chris deulen   Castle Rock
  V3
I'd recommend 3-4 pads with 3 spotters. High ball to the max! It gets easier the higher you go! May 24, 2006
As of about October of last year this problem has been harder. Chris Hanson broke a hold off of the start. It was the little left hand crimp to the left side of the crack, on about the third move I [believe]. It's not too much harder, but people have said it is harder.... Apr 18, 2002
This was a cool problem the start is hard, but about half way up the holds were [bomber]. Apr 13, 2002