Type: Boulder, 19 ft
FA: [Breashears]
Page Views: 15,750 total · 76/month
Shared By: Chris Dawson on Feb 21, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route

154 Opinions

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This is located on the "square block" about halfway up the hill. The block can be seen from the Black Hole directly above a large pine tree on the middle of the hillside. This problem is rad. The crux is the first 8-10 feet. It has really thin laybacks and jams. The upper half of the problem is easier but pretty highball. Unless you regularly onsight .11+ finger cracks, I'd recommend a pad. This is the crack up the center of the northwest face of the square block. There are problems up both aretes on either side of the face. I'm not sure who did the first ascent or if there are any cool historical facts about this one. This is one of my favorite boulder problems. It is worth every star.


Two crashpads and two spotters preferable. The problem is about 19 ft. high with a bad landing
This was a cool problem the start is hard, but about half way up the holds were [bomber]. Apr 13, 2002
As of about October of last year this problem has been harder. Chris Hanson broke a hold off of the start. It was the little left hand crimp to the left side of the crack, on about the third move I [believe]. It's not too much harder, but people have said it is harder.... Apr 18, 2002
chris deulen
Castle Rock
chris deulen   Castle Rock
I'd recommend 3-4 pads with 3 spotters. High ball to the max! It gets easier the higher you go! May 24, 2006
Jay Samuelson
Denver CO
Jay Samuelson   Denver CO
Great problem, great crack. Doesn't get much better than this. Last move is a little committing.... Jun 22, 2007
Jason Kaplan
Glenwood ,Co
Jason Kaplan   Glenwood ,Co
Tried this for the first time today, last problem of the day so I wasn't full strength, I managed to work the moves till just above the flared off hands/ fingers section, where there is a good ledge 2-3 fingers deep. Right below where the flake section begins. I didn't have enough strength to get through to the next move as the feet really get in obvious and I was basically using my arms mostly.

Any advice?

Oh, I have some bring some freaking tape! I wish I did.
We had 5 pads and 1-3 spotters at a time which helped the mental factor.
Classic for sure, it will be a nice project for me. Feb 24, 2008
Bjorn   WNC
Now wouldn't the FA be David Breashears? Jul 19, 2008
Geoff Elson  
This is the most beautiful line I have ever seen, or climbed, literally the world's best V3. It may seem a bit burly until you hunker down on the finger locks and figure out the sequence. Aug 8, 2008
Golden, CO
Monty   Golden, CO  
This might be the hardest V3 I know... great problem, very asthetic. Mar 2, 2009
doug rouse
Denver, CO.
doug rouse   Denver, CO.
Uh..Yeah...IMHO a sandbag at V3. Would you give this only .11c/d if leading it? Nov 8, 2009
I would say it's hard for the grade but not necessarily a sandbag. Compare it to the Aid Crack on Cob Rock in Boulder Canyon (.10d), and I would think the rating is accurate. 2-3 letter grades seems about right. Sep 5, 2011
Denver, CO
MAKB   Denver, CO  
  V3-4 PG13
  V3-4 PG13
I haven't bouldered a whole lot, but this seemed very rough for V3 unless you're an awesome crack climber (which I'm not). If that crux were 40 feet up a climb, I'd expect it go at least 5.12a. Super aesthetic! Sep 20, 2013
Golden, Co
WadeM   Golden, Co
Felt 11+ to me. Been on plenty of 11s in Eldo, and it's right on par. Compared to something like Gill Crack (12a), this is much easier....

With good crack technique, it's fun. Sep 16, 2014
Brett S.
Brett S.   Colorado
What a killer problem! My pick for best V3 in Colorado. Just go climb it. Jul 28, 2015
Jason Antin
Golden, CO
Jason Antin   Golden, CO
The most dramatic video of a V3 you'll probably ever see - what a great little problem though!

youtube.com/watch?v=HkNFE39… Aug 20, 2015
T Dz
T Dz   Golden
Best V3 in the Front Range! Apr 7, 2016
Nick Tripp
San Diego, CA
Nick Tripp   San Diego, CA
As a crack climber, I was skeptical when my friend suggested we go bouldering (after our 15+ overnight road trip from Illinois, to boot), but he managed to find the best boulder problem, as if it was tailored for me! Since I was on my way to Indian Creek, I loved it.

Worth it. Even when you’re freaking out during the topout on what your friend has assured you are ‘jugs’. Do it! Mar 16, 2018
Nik Vukovich
Denver, CO
Nik Vukovich   Denver, CO
vimeo.com/247254012. Feb 1, 2019