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Routes in The Capstan
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Just Right V7 7A+ |
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Oxman Arete (aka Daydreamer Direct SDS) V10- 7C+ |
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Privy, The V11 8A |
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South Crack V3 6A X |
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Trough Direct SDS, The V8 7B |
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Urinal, The V9+ 7C |
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West Face [The Capstan] TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a V1 5 |
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| Type: | Boulder, 15 ft (5 m) |
| GPS: | 40.00276, -105.29548 |
| FA: | Xander Oxman |
| Page Views: | 3,902 total · 19/month |
| Shared By: | Jonathan Siegrist on Mar 30, 2009 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Description
Xander Oxman established this problem a while back, and apparently since then a number of holds have eroded- but the problem has been re-opened. This is definitely an enjoyable line despite being somewhat of a link up between 'The Trough' (V4/5 from 1961!!) and 'Just Right'.
This problem begins down and right of 'Just Right'. Start with your left hand on a poor pinch, your right on a large pebble and you ass just barely off the ground. Reach right to a sharp crimp and continue through a series of power-moves until you reach the crimp-rail lip. Match here, and continue powering left on small crimps, with awkward feet until you reach the sloping pocket on 'Just Right'. Top out as for 'Just Right'.
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