Oxman Arete (aka Daydreamer Direct SDS) 

FA:  Xander Oxman Type:  Boulder Consensus:  V9 [details] Length:  15 feet Views: 183 page views Submitted By: Jonathan Siegrist on Mar 30, 2009 Add Photo  Add Comment

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Description 

Xander Oxman established this problem a while back, and apparently since then a number of holds have eroded- but the problem has been re-opened. This is definitely an enjoyable line despite being somewhat of a link up between 'The Trough' (V4/5 from 1961!!) and 'Just Right'.

This problem begins down and right of 'Just Right'. Start with your left hand on a poor pinch, your right on a large pebble and you ass just barely off the ground. Reach right to a sharp crimp and continue through a series of power-moves until you reach the crimp-rail lip. Match here, and continue powering left on small crimps, with awkward feet until you reach the sloping pocket on 'Just Right'. Top out as for 'Just Right'.

Location 

Capstan Boulder, next to Just Right.

Protection 

Use Le Crash Pad.