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Oxman Arete (aka Daydreamer Direct SDS)
V9,
Boulder, 15 ft (5 m),
Avg: 2.6 from 14
votes
FA: Xander Oxman
Colorado
> Boulder
> Flagstaff
> Capstan
Description
Xander Oxman established this problem a while back, and apparently since then a number of holds have eroded- but the problem has been re-opened. This is definitely an enjoyable line despite being somewhat of a link up between 'The Trough' (V4/5 from 1961!!) and '
Just Right'.
This problem begins down and right of '
Just Right'. Start with your left hand on a poor pinch, your right on a large pebble and you ass just barely off the ground. Reach right to a sharp crimp and continue through a series of power-moves until you reach the crimp-rail lip. Match here, and continue powering left on small crimps, with awkward feet until you reach the sloping pocket on '
Just Right'. Top out as for '
Just Right'.
Location
This lies on the Capstan Boulder next to
Just Right.
Protection
Use le crash pad.
Boulder Colorado
Boulder Colorado
This video shows an ascent of Just Right Direct from the shelf and an ascent of Daydreamer Direct. Mar 15, 2011
Longmont, CO
Denver, CO
Denver, CO
Downers Grove, IL