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Routes in The Capstan

Just Right V7 7A+
Oxman Arete (aka Daydreamer Direct SDS) V9 7C
South Crack V3- 6A X
Trough Direct SDS, The V8 7B
West Face [The Capstan] TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Boulder
FA: [unknown]
Page Views: 1,921 total, 9/month
Shared By: Patrick Vernon on Dec 31, 2000
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


24 Opinions

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Description

This is a good highball up the obvious slippery crack facing the road. The crux is at the beginning, maybe .11- or so finger jamming, above the hardest stuff is some 5.8 climbing to a stance 25 feet above the ground, from here one can downclimb to the east (very tricky, downclimbing mid fith class climbing) or continue on some 5.6 slab to the summit (almost soloing now). This route can be toproped too.

Protection

A highballing head.

Photos

I first did this back in the 1960s and mostly done then as a toprope problem in Kronhofer klettershchues. I did it again in the 1980s with new sticky rubber La Sportivas, and it seemed a lot easier. I'd give it a V2/V3 rating. Not all that hard, as Flagstaff boulder problems go.... Apr 30, 2011
Tom T  
V2-P (P is for PUCKER!) The high-ball section is easy climbing but still pretty heady. Mar 12, 2009
GeoffElson Elson  
  V2-3
It's spot on for flagstaff V2, like most problems once the best beta is found the grade makes more sense but realistically V3. Jun 22, 2007
Chris O'Connor
boulder, co
  V3 PG13
Chris O'Connor   boulder, co
  V3 PG13
Good, fun route. V2 seems off. The sds is harder for sure. Feb 6, 2007