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Routes in The Capstan

Just Right V7 7A+
Oxman Arete (aka Daydreamer Direct SDS) V9 7C
South Crack V3- 6A X
Trough Direct SDS, The V8 7B
West Face [The Capstan] TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
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Type: TR
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,832 total · 8/month
Shared By: Michael Komarnitsky on Dec 31, 2000
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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22 Opinions

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Start about 4 feet to the left of the obvious (difficult) crack. Move through the huecos to reach a ledge, move left and up through a few balance moves onto nice jugs. It is a fun route.


A couple of five foot slings. Conversely, you can do this as a definite highball boulder problem.


This isnt a route, its a boulder problem. V1**. May 7, 2003
The Scenic Cruise, the Yellow Wall, the Casual Route, and Astroman are boulder problems for some. Pinch Overhang is a route as far as I'm concerned. What's your point? May 7, 2003
Robert Buswold
Northglenn, CO
Robert Buswold   Northglenn, CO
Fun route - too high for me without rope... can be down-climbed easily on the other side once you top out. Jul 28, 2010
I'll agree that this is "too high for me without a rope!" The rating of 10a seems about right. Apr 16, 2013
Kaz Hatfield
Kaz Hatfield   Firestone
Very cool route with great holds at the bottom to start and at the top to finish it off. The crux is met at a rail of hand holds leading left and back right through a V1/5.10a sequence of moves. You can choose to make into a fun TR and run laps on it or exciting boulder problem. Sep 1, 2017

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