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Stoney Point

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Slander Land II 
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South Buttress 1 
South Buttress 2 
South Buttress 3 
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Summit Boulders 
Turlock 

Stoney Point 


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Lat, Long: 34.2714, -118.604 Map Incorrect?
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Administrators: Chris Owen, jt512, M.Morley, Salamanizer, Justin Johnsen, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Jordan K on Oct 8, 2006
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Guidebooks (3)
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Michael Reardon on Sculpture's Traverse - you'll b...

Description 

The local area for the climbers of Los Angeles; Stoney Point can boast to be one of the very first bouldering areas anywhere. It’s historic significance should not be underestimated – many of America’s luminaries cut their teeth here; Royal Robbins, Yvon Chouinard, Bob Kamps, Ron Kauk, John Long, and John Bachar to name but a few.

This sandstone crag is surrounded by many fine boulders and there are some great top rope problems on the walls, and in the canyons. At its best, the rock is fine grained and quite compact, which makes it very kind on the hands and enables long bouldering sessions. There are also many flakes, which break easily, especially after prolonged rain, so take great care after such weather. Because of this, the bouldering at Stoney Point does take on a kind of ephemeral state; as holds break off you’ll find your recent send to be a thing of the past. This raises another issue as some “climbers” have resorted to chipping and otherwise modifying the rock – needless to say this is utterly unacceptable. There’s a lot of variety here and one can put together quite an eclectic cocktail of boulder problems for an excellent training session.

The climbing season lasts all year long – although in the summer it can get very hot, and of course, as stated earlier, rain stops play.

There’s a lot of trash and graffiti at Stoney Point, and it’s a bloody crying shame. There’s usually a clean-up effort at least once a year and local climbers are encouraged to attend and contribute whenever possible. Stoney Point is a city park – granted mainly through the efforts of climbers.

Websites:
www.sowr.com
ayola.com/stoney/

Forums & Threads:
www.socalbouldering.com/forum/index.php
boulderstoney.com/forum/
Supertopo

Videos:
Where available I have added a link to a video segment of the applicable problem - Jon McCartie is generously donating this resource.

Matt Braunstein's mesmerizing and poetic video of hard boulder problems at Turlock and B1 Boulder:

.

Rob Gordon's excellent video montage of hard problems is located here.

Cole Gibson's exciting upcoming documentary:

Stoney Point: Portrait of an American Crag - extended teaser
.

Cole Gibson's homage to the essential summer evening scene:

Demons, Dogs & Dynos out at the Point
.

Eye on LA Video Short from the 70's:


Other Resources:
Grading Systems Compared:
Not especially about Stoney Point, rather a good, humorous account of the V system written by Mr. Sherman himself.
Stoney Point News
News page with RSS Feed capability.
Supertopo Stoney Point Post lots of fun photos here.


Getting There 

Stoney Point is located in the San Fernando Valley, just north of LA. It's located on the southeast corner of the intersection of the 118 Fwy. and Topanga Canyon Blvd. Parking is free on the northbound side of the road.


176 Total Routes


['4 Stars',13],['3 Stars',79],['2 Stars',71],['1 Star',12],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',6],['5.7',6],['5.8',7],['5.9',16],['5.10',19],['5.11',6],['5.12',5],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',58],['V2-3',50],['V4-5',10],['V6-7',6],['V8-9',1],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Stoney Point:
Three Pigs   V0 4     Boulder, Chipped, 1 pitch, 15'   Boulder 1
Amphitheater (aka Todd's) Traverse   V0 4     Boulder, 50'   Amphitheater
Critter Crack   V0 4     Boulder, 20'   Canyon Boulders
Spiral Traverse   V1 5     Boulder, 50'   Spiral Boulder
Hoof and Mouth   V1 5     Boulder, 15'   Turlock
Sculpture's Crack Traverse   V1 5     Boulder   Sculpture's Crack Wall
Boot Flake   V2 5+     Boulder, 20'   Boulder 1
Crowd Pleaser   V2 5+     Boulder, 25'   Turlock
Kodas' Corner   V3 6A     Boulder, 20'   Canyon Boulders
Leaping Lizards   V3 6A     Boulder, 1 pitch, 15'   Boulder 1
The Crack   V3 6A     Boulder, 15'   B1 Boulder
Crystal Ball Mantel   V4-5 6B+     Boulder, 23'   Turlock
Master of Reality   V5 6C     Boulder, 30'   B1 Boulder
The Font   V7 7A+     Boulder, 15'   Canyon Boulders
Left Hand   5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b     TR, 50'   Mozart's Wall
Mommies Right   5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c V0 4     TR, Boulder, 20'   Summit Boulders : Mommys Boys
Potholes   5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a     TR, 50'   Back Wall
The Nutcracker   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a     TR, 50'   Nutcracker Buttress
Jesus Wall Left   5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b     TR, 1 pitch, 80'   Jesus Wall
Sculpture's Crack   5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b     TR, 50'   Sculpture's Crack Wall
Browse More Classics in Stoney Point

Featured Route For Stoney Point
1994...Forgot who took this pic.

Johnson Problem V7 7A+ CA : Los Angeles Basin : ... : Split Rock
The undercut south face overhanging roof problem...Big moves to weird slopey funkness and again to the lip at an incut but rounded crimp. A big span move to and from the left arete and then forget about where your feet are, as you lurch and do a powerful rock-up to funky edges. Do a stand up move and slab it over slightly dicey terrain to the top.For those Coloradoans, its like a harder version of Germ Free Adolescence to the lip but then it gets really ugly!! Watch out if one of the holds above...[more]   Browse More Classics in CA

News and Events For Stoney Point
Photos of Stoney Point Slideshow Add Photo
You never know what you'll see at Stoney Point. <br />Although Chatsworth is the porn capitol.
You never know what you'll see at Stoney Point.
Al...
Anonymous Bachar memorial at Boulder 1. <br /> <br />"In Memory of John Bachar who started climbing here at Stoney Point".
Anonymous Bachar memorial at Boulder 1.

"In Memor...
Boulder 1 Area in 1960 (c) Bob and Bonnie Kamps
Boulder 1 Area in 1960 (c) Bob and Bonnie Kamps
Stoney Point, overview of some of the popular areas.
BETA PHOTO: Stoney Point, overview of some of the popular area...
Local climbers? Not your everyday crowd.  3-20-10
Local climbers? Not your everyday crowd. 3-20-10
Tony, stung on the bottom lip by a bee.
BETA PHOTO: Tony, stung on the bottom lip by a bee.
Phil Fontilea traversing from Hot Tuna to Nutcracker (July 1, 2007).
Phil Fontilea traversing from Hot Tuna to Nutcrack...
Watch out for these.
Watch out for these.
Christina Pilo
Christina Pilo
A slackline at Stoney Point?!  Cool!
A slackline at Stoney Point?! Cool!
Rescue of injured I believe climber in the Pin Scars area. 5-22-10
Rescue of injured I believe climber in the Pin Sca...
Rescue of injured I believe climber in the Pin Scars area. 5-22-10
Rescue of injured I believe climber in the Pin Sca...
Stoney Point as seen from the North
BETA PHOTO: Stoney Point as seen from the North
Last look at Stoney while getting on the 118 fwy on the last wednesday before the time change.
Last look at Stoney while getting on the 118 fwy o...
Post October 2008 fire.  The Front wall / Jesus Wall area.
Post October 2008 fire. The Front wall / Jesus Wa...
Rescue of injured I believe climber in the Pin Scars area. 5-22-10
Rescue of injured I believe climber in the Pin Sca...
Local climbers? Not your everyday crowd.  3-20-10
Local climbers? Not your everyday crowd. 3-20-10
Pictured is one of the most common forms of bolts found at Stoney, shown along side a modern bolt hanger for comparison.  They can be found atop many different formations.
BETA PHOTO: Pictured is one of the most common forms of bolts ...
Local climbers? Not your everyday crowd.  3-20-10
Local climbers? Not your everyday crowd. 3-20-10
Bees!  The new warning sign posted after a dog was killed and a boy hospitalized from bee stings. <br /> <br />Call 213-485-4826 to report active or aggressive hives
BETA PHOTO: Bees! The new warning sign posted after a dog was...
Trash from the Adopt-A-Crag at Stoney on 10/29/11
Trash from the Adopt-A-Crag at Stoney on 10/29/11
Rescue of injured I believe climber in the Pin Scars area. 5-22-10
Rescue of injured I believe climber in the Pin Sca...
Location of Stoney Point
BETA PHOTO: Location of Stoney Point
Rescue of injured I believe climber in the Pin Scars area. 5-22-10
Rescue of injured I believe climber in the Pin Sca...
Trash from the Stoney Point Clean Up 10/30/10 and Boulder #1
Trash from the Stoney Point Clean Up 10/30/10 and ...
8-04-10
8-04-10
Stoney Point as seen from Topanga Cyn Blvd.
BETA PHOTO: Stoney Point as seen from Topanga Cyn Blvd.
Trash from the Stoney Point Clean Up 10/30/10
Trash from the Stoney Point Clean Up 10/30/10
View of Stoney Point from near Boulder 1 with some walls labeled.
BETA PHOTO: View of Stoney Point from near Boulder 1 with some...
Another clue for beachplus4 on that spot you are looking for. A great spot to end the day on the last wednesday before the time change.
Another clue for beachplus4 on that spot you are l...
Local friends.  4-3-10
Local friends. 4-3-10
Tilt shift of an earlier photo post. A favorite place to kick back at the end of a session.
Tilt shift of an earlier photo post. A favorite pl...
Demo of proper crash pad use?  3-20-10
Demo of proper crash pad use? 3-20-10
Thrash from the REI/Access Fund Adopt-A-Crag on 10/20/12
Thrash from the REI/Access Fund Adopt-A-Crag on 10...
Back Wall area.  4-3-10
Back Wall area. 4-3-10
Hiking Stoney...
Hiking Stoney...
Comments on Stoney Point Add Comment
Show which comments
Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jan 23, 2014
By Chris Owen
Administrator
From: La Crescenta and Big Bear Lake
May 13, 2007

Some of the climbs have cruxes which involve the very last move, so remember to finish the top rope routes and not just touch the 'biner and lower off - end of finger wagging.

By Jordan Ramey
From: Calgary, Alberta
Jul 9, 2007

Guidebooks:
Urban Rock - by Chris Owen (2004)
Southern California Bouldering - Craig Fry (1995)

By Shawn Shannon
From: Everett, WA
Oct 24, 2007

Apparently it's turned into quite the spot for drug addicts. Goofed off there a few days while I was consulting at Meggit Safety Systems. Saw multiple people every day huddled in the cracks on the top, obviously hiding what they had and looking disheveled. Bummer too as the park's got some fun bouldering and views.

By Dirty Gri Gri, or is it GiGi?
From: Vegas
Oct 27, 2007

Jonny, and I climbed at Stoney a couple of weeks ago.
Here's my take on it;

The grafitti sucked, and climbing on the lacquered spray paint on one route we did was slippery in a few spots but the rock was friendly on the hands, and the climbing was fun. The atmosphere wasn't too bad; I chatted with a couple of potential 5150s that were disheveled, yet sporting new climbing shoes meandering at the base of the routes. The homeless guys were staying low key, and had their items neatly stashed so it wasn't too much of an eye sore. There were a couple of guys that looked like they were maybe Rabbis with long beards scrambling in their religious clothing, and tennis shoes. The demeanor of the drug addicts; mellow, non-aggressive, non-confrontational. If you said "Boo!" they'd probably run home to mommy. Although I did see gang-like graffiti, I didn't see any gang activity while we were there anyway; no signs of MS-13. The only thing that frightened me was being forced to walk through a blockade of born again Christians on the trail, as they were filming an amateur religious video. They exhibited a paranoid wide-eyed look when I said, "Hey, what's up?" I guess I could be pretty scary too. Anyway, I enjoyed imagining the old school climbers back in the day cutting their teeth at these crags in a much more peaceful, beautiful, remote Stoney Point. The freeway noise was an annoyance but being from LA, it was to be expected. I loved watching, and hearing the trains go by while belaying, and climbing.

It's all good.

Stoney Point is a must visit place, and Chris Owens book was awesome.

Try it, you might like it.

By Chris Owen
Administrator
From: La Crescenta and Big Bear Lake
Oct 27, 2007

Thank you Gigette. I'm trying to remember what my first impressions of Stoney Point were when I first arrived there in 1984; not positive I expect but I've grown to love the place.

Heck, I met all of my best friends there!

By Jon McCartie
From: Edmond, OK
Jan 20, 2008

working on creating a collection of video beta for a number of SoCal bouldering areas. here's what I have for Stoney Point. check back often...

www.vimeo.com/album/5836

By Ryan Regalado
Apr 21, 2009

I just came across this: www.flashed.com/podguides/index.html

Is there any ipod downloadables for Stoney Point? That would be cool. Thanks in advance for any replies.

By Patton
Jun 8, 2009

On June 6, 2009, Saturday, I parked my car along Topanga Canyon Road shortly after 12 p.m. When I returned around 4 p.m., the driver side window was smashed. The burglar took items from the glove compartment and the console. The traffic was heavy along Topanga Canyon Road, and many cars parked on the east side. When I reported the incident to LAPD, they appear indifferent.

By Chris Owen
Administrator
From: La Crescenta and Big Bear Lake
Jul 7, 2009

Patton sorry to hear about your break in, not an unusual occurrence I'm sorry to say. I park by the Stoney Point sign, the idea being that people at Boulder 1 would see stuff happening up on the street. There seems to be more broken glass up by the traffic light.

By Chris Owen
Administrator
From: La Crescenta and Big Bear Lake
May 22, 2010

As previously mentioned under "Other Resources" above.

By Jim Fraley
Oct 14, 2010

Good times, very fun and easy to navigate/find routes. Don't let the talk about graffiti and bums make you think this place is anything less than classic.

Excellent bouldering for all levels of climbers. Some of it can be quite high so bring your courage.

By Tristan B
From: La Crescenta, CA
Feb 11, 2011

Sport Chalet had an old copy of urban rock for $10 and it's way better than the new one! Doesn't mak any sense why he put out a new version that has less in it and worse drawings.

By Chris Owen
Administrator
From: La Crescenta and Big Bear Lake
Mar 5, 2011

By "he" I assume you mean me Tristan.

1) There are more routes in the 3rd edition - by about 100 I think.
2) The drawings are the same, besides the map, there's a new one and it just got published in Climbing magazine.

Still if you like the 2nd Edition - thanks and have fun with it.

By Xan Calonne
From: Studio City, Ca
Mar 17, 2011

hey all, i've got a blog going that might be interesting to stoney climbers, its got photos as well as some of my observations, opinions, the usual blog fodder. check it out at verticali-culture.blogspot.com. thanks and pray for no rain this weekend- Xan

By Rob Gordon
From: Hollywood, CA
May 30, 2011

My buddy Callum and I shot a bunch of climbs on our Flip and iPhone this winter. Thought you guys might get a laugh or two out of it. It's not the quality filmmaking Cole's documentary will surely be. Facebook cause of music rights.

www.facebook.com/video/video.php?v=623320354111&comments]]ww>>>

By Chris Owen
Administrator
From: La Crescenta and Big Bear Lake
Jun 17, 2011

Nice Rob, great job Callum on Fighting with Alligators!

I've posted a link above under "Videos".

By Junio
From: Los Angeles, CA
Jan 10, 2012

Does anyone know the [his]story about toilets at Stoney? I am not a super-frequent climber out there but every time I do head out it strikes me that the high traffic of climbers, hikers, families picnicing on the weekends and the odd resident bum must add up to a prolific amount of human waste. Considering how many people enjoy Stoney, its beauty and historical importance it's baffling that there's nowhere to errr, go. I realize it's officially a city issue but is this something other climbers have tried to do something about [in vain] already?

By Chris Owen
Administrator
From: La Crescenta and Big Bear Lake
Jan 26, 2012

Junio, not for many decades to my knowledge - I brought it up at a council meeting back in 1994. I would certainly be worth considering, one issue that would need to be addressed (besides expense) would be the vandalism issue, how to prevent the bathrooms from being trashed and destroyed, or even burned to the ground.

It may be possible to find sponsorship through private sources. As mentioned previously policing is a concern, we did manage to get no parking after dark signs which have impacted the graffiti and trash, I think significantly.

As a city park Stoney Point is a work in process.

By ryan mattock
Feb 26, 2012

the toilet thing gets to me also. we need to come up with our constructed toilet. the city don't help out too much.

By Rob Gordon
From: Hollywood, CA
Apr 14, 2012

Purplepineapple: I don't toprope too often, so I'm not familiar with the boy scout wall area, but it's my opinion that the bees should be kept wherever the boyscouts are climbing.

Maybe you should post under your real name if you are going to be proposing a big change like this. And only a few of the old timers actually belong to this site. Go to Boulder 1 on Tuesday and Thursday nights and ask everyone with grey hair what they think. I for one am not for glueing holds. I'm also not for messing with the bees. If you want to kill rattlesnakes, I'm okay with that.

By Chris Owen
Administrator
From: La Crescenta and Big Bear Lake
Apr 17, 2012

I'm with Rob on this and also have gray hair (I'm not implying that Rob has gray hair).

I can't see that moderate routes need to have holds glued, they've seen plenty of activity and erosion over the years and are in pretty good shape. Let's just let natural events make their mark and not try to manufacture routes - I think it's a bad precedence to set for routes on natural stone, at any grade.

I'm only aware of one beehive close to a moderate area (but I could be wrong), I've been stung by bees from that one. But really my attitude is not to mess with mother nature. The bees tend to stay in the same places over the years and if we move them from their established areas to new "out of the way" place that'll just allow more bees to move in to the newly vacated old areas.

Add quality bolt anchors - absolutely. Pink Drips in particular needs anchors, my only caveat is that they're set according to standard soft rock practices - Caltech Alpine Club has donated $50 for Pink Drips anchor replacement and I need to get off my butt and get something going - now that Spring is here it seems like a good time.

By greg bahr
May 31, 2012

seriously i have mad questions on the harder lines at stoney does anyone know anybody or can give me the scoop themselves? please message me!

By Boots Ylectric
From: Roselle IL
Jul 11, 2012

Sitting here watching climbing vids tonight I began to miss Stoney Point and decided to look over what routes were on here and add my tick marks from a 2011 trip where I fell in love with the place. I absolutely cannot wait to be in LA again just to go to Stoney Point. One visit gave it a special place in my heart and little did I know that it was so rich in climbing history too. Great contributions Chris. I hope to be out there again soon. If you're a climber/boulderer in South Cali this is a must hit destination.

By Stefan Harms
Oct 7, 2012

Found a climbing rope earlier this morning on the bench next to boulder one neatly coiled up. Ping me if you think it's yours; for authentication purposes I would ask for some details, i.e. color and other distinguishing features

By greg bahr
Oct 15, 2012

A little video from Stoney for those interested!

By Chris Owen
Administrator
From: La Crescenta and Big Bear Lake
Oct 25, 2012

Nice Greg - why not post the route at Pile Ups?

By Nick Mudd
Jan 5, 2014

Does anyone know the name of the route on the wall between nabisco & sculpture? The bolts are on top of the east wall of nabisco canyon, about 10 feet further down from the big eye bolt above the easy crack, and the route is on the opposite side of the wall from nabisco canyon.

Thanks!

By Chris Owen
Administrator
From: La Crescenta and Big Bear Lake
Jan 23, 2014

Nick there are three routes on the outside wall of Nabisco Canyon (east of the canyon itself):

Quicksilver (5.9), Mercury (10a), and Winged Messenger. (10b).

See Page 83 of Urban Rock.