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Routes in Mozart's Wall

Amadeus TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Amadeus II TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Arborist Arete V2-3 5+ PG13
Center Route TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Face V0 4
Far Left Route TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Left Hand TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Mozart's Wall Traverse V0 4
Mr. Toad's Wild Ride V-easy 3 R
Quickstep V2 5+
Right Edge TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Unnamed Arete V0 4
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Elevation: 1,132 ft
GPS: 34.271, -118.604 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 19,464 total · 140/month
Shared By: Jordan Ramey on May 4, 2007
Admins: Chris Owen, jt512, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes
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Description

North Facing Wall. Shaded in the early morning. Bottom half probably remains somewhat shaded throughout the day, but not sure. Several (4) TR anchors on top so this wall will probably see crowds on the weekend. Climbs range from 5.5 - 5.10+ depending on the variations. It is about 45-50' tall and is a great wall to work on footwork and spotting holds.

Check the bolts before blindly trusting them. The farthest east bolt seems to move in its hole a little. The back bolt on the three bolt anchor at the far west down on the shelf has somewhat loose nuts, so make sure they are tight. Be sure to use more than 1 bolt and equalize them.

When the wall is busy, ask before clipping to a bolt someone else is already using. I am fairly sure as many as four ropes can be run on this wall, but that will make it fairly busy.

Getting There

North Facing wall just west of Beethoven's wall. Follow the trail around and from Beethoven, hugging the cliffside, and it's just up on the left. There is a tree right next to part of the wall and the start of Amadeus. The Center Climb has the word COBRA spray painted at the base.

Walk up to the top from the west gully.

12 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Mozart's Wall

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
V0 4
 34
Mozart's Wall Traverse
Boulder
V2 5+
 19
Quickstep
Boulder
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 65
Left Hand
TR
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 39
Far Left Route
TR
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 61
Center Route
TR
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 47
Amadeus
TR
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 22
Amadeus II
TR
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Mozart's Wall Traverse
 34
V0 4 Boulder
Quickstep
 19
V2 5+ Boulder
Left Hand
 65
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b TR
Far Left Route
 39
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c TR
Center Route
 61
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a TR
Amadeus
 47
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a TR
Amadeus II
 22
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a TR
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Spider Savage
Los Angeles, ID
Spider Savage   Los Angeles, ID
GUIDES: The low angle buttress on the right side is an excellent 5.0 TR for young children, heavyweights and athletically challenged people. There are 3 solid bolts at the top to protect it.

INTERMEDIATE BOULDERING: Traverse Mozart's from left to right for a nice pump. If the guns are shot but the mind is sharp traverse from right to left to get the hard stuff out of the way early. May 18, 2007
Be very wary of the two new looking bolts with fixe hangers above the right side of Mozart's. Although they appear to be only a few years old, both hangers spin freely and one of the actual bolts can be wiggled around by hand both vertically and horizontally. Can't tell from the outside what the issue is, but whoever put them in definitely f***ed up.

The two big glue-ins are bomber. Feb 25, 2013
Climbed 4/15/15. Good quality rock, excellent wall for anyone who's climbed in any capacity before. The arĂȘte on the right side is a good beginner route as it doesn't require many hand hokds other than for balance.
In my opinion the routes are probably a little underrated. Most likely the result of some holds falling off throughout time. The 5.9 is really fun.. And the 5.7 left route? Maybe it exists but I didn't see many obvious 5.7 features.
The anchors are all pretty bomber, though I would say always check them anyways and use atleast 2. Apr 17, 2015
Ancent
Reno, NV
Ancent   Reno, NV
Key hold on Amadeus or Amadeus II broke today (I can't tell the two apart). As of now, only thin moves near the top, without the nice jug for assistance. The jug has been there for a while and always felt weak; saw it break as a foothold.

Still a great climb and the difficultly probably only bumped up to 10b or so Jun 7, 2015
Climbed Mozarts 10/6/15 and found routes tuffer generally than graded. Perhaps holds have broken?? Note the tree at wall has fallen down. Also note far right anchors have several bolts without hangars. Great spot with some shade in back of alcove. Oct 6, 2015

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