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Routes in Mozart's Wall

Amadeus TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Amadeus II TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Arborist Arete V2-3 5+ PG13
Center Route TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Face V0 4
Far Left Route TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Left Hand TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Mozart's Wall Traverse V0 4
Mr. Toad's Wild Ride V-easy 3 R
Quickstep V2 5+
Right Edge TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Unnamed Arete V0 4
Type: Boulder, 15 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,237 total, 17/month
Shared By: Chris Owen on May 30, 2007
Admins: Chris Owen, jt512, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Not as hard as it looks and always impresses the neophytes on Mozart's.

A dance up the arete. A sidepull for the left and pockets for the right, with multiple foot switches, lead to a critical heel hook on the left which allows for a committing throw for the big jug - then do a nervy pull over the top on small put positive enough holds - downclimb using the tree to the right.

Location

Big boulder directly opposite Mozart's Wall - the southwest edge.

Protection

Pad and spotters
Chris Owen
Big Bear Lake
 
Chris Owen   Big Bear Lake  
 
I saw this yesterday - very very sad to see the tree lying on the ground, and if as you say someone pushed it over just to get to a boulder problem, that is the wrong precedence to set, as living things are more important than our egos. The whole area seems a little barren and depressing now. If the poor tree has to go I would suggest cutting it up for firewood, including the stump, as that's an ankle roller for the Mozart's Traverse. Sep 8, 2015
Ar Py  
Agreed, Chris. My buddy and I are planning to bring a stake and some agricultural tape to try and give the thing a second chance and prop it back up. Sep 3, 2015
Chris Owen
Big Bear Lake
 
Chris Owen   Big Bear Lake  
 
Seems like some pruning might be in order - but not cutting it down. Sep 1, 2015
Ar Py  
As of August 31st the curving tree has fallen over and Quickstep is now pretty vegetative, dunno how the problem can be done in it's current state without some serious branches holding you back. Very sad. Aug 31, 2015
Chris Owen
Big Bear Lake
 
Chris Owen   Big Bear Lake  
 
Yes it's the Sandlow Problem rated V6, I was there when Aaron did it, both he and Reardon called it V6. I can't vouch for this being the first ascent. If anyone knows better, let me know. Mar 10, 2014
Wil Sterner
Topanga, California
Wil Sterner   Topanga, California
What is the problem called and rated that starts right of quickstep and continues out right that tops out with a mantle on a sloper? heard it was a Sandlow problem and that it is rarely done. Oct 7, 2013
Chris Owen
Big Bear Lake
 
Chris Owen   Big Bear Lake  
 
As an unusual variation you can start the Mozart's Traverse from the left to just before the tree then leap for the start of Quickstep, and finish up that. Feb 26, 2009
Chris Owen
Big Bear Lake
 
Chris Owen   Big Bear Lake  
 
Jon, yes there is, I've seen Aaron Sandlow do it and Michael Reardon work it, he told me he thought it was about V6. It has a fairly knarly finish. Sep 22, 2008
Jon McCartie
Edmond, OK
Jon McCartie   Edmond, OK
Is there a direct problem here? Using only the pockets? Jul 29, 2008