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Routes in Beethoven's Wall

Beethoven's Crack TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Center Route TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Direct Route TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Mantle Start TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Prow, The TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

Description

Stoney's most popular top-rope wall has some sweet face climbing from 5.7 to 5.11a.

Routes left to right:
1) The Prow 5.11a
2) Center Route 5.10a
3) Direct Route 5.10c
4) Beethoven's Crack 5.7

Blocks are more than adequate to set up an anchor.

Getting There

Head up the gully to the right of the wall, at the top go left up a very short wall.

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Classic Climbing Routes at Beethoven's Wall

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Beethoven's Crack
TR
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Center Route
TR
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Direct Route
TR
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
The Prow
TR
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Beethoven's Crack 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b TR
Center Route 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a TR
Direct Route 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b TR
The Prow 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c TR
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Weather Averages

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J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D
Chris Owen
Big Bear Lake
Chris Owen   Big Bear Lake  
Seems about right Brian - I assumed you finished direct at the top, right below your anchor. Jun 16, 2015
Chris Owen
Big Bear Lake
Chris Owen   Big Bear Lake  
Went back today and looked at Center and Direct - Ken they stand at 10a and 10c - the start of Direct is bloody hard in my estimation, and the Center Route is probably even crimper than I remember. Jul 24, 2011
Chris Owen
Big Bear Lake
Chris Owen   Big Bear Lake  
Hmmm - I'll have to go back and look at the 5.10c, it's been along time since I did it, perhaps someone chopped a hold? That's been happening a lot recently. Jun 4, 2010
My sons and I climbed the 10.a and 10.c on 11/27/09. I'm 63 and my sons are 32 and 28. Seems to me that 5.9 and 5.8 are more accurate ratings. Nov 30, 2009
There are numerous boulders on top; you can sling them quite easily. Be careful of your sling placement, as several have lost (and had to cut) their slings in the past. Cordelettes might be a better option and less prone to pinching.

I slung two boulders with 1" x 30' tubular webbing and used a #2 Omega Pacific Link Cam with a 7mm x 30' cordelette as a backup.

Don't forget to anchor yourself in at the top; you will have to create your master point several feet down to avoid rope drag, and there is nothing to prevent you from decking.

You can rap down, but it's a bit sketchy because you can't weight the master point until you're literally over the ledge (again, if you are anchored in then this should not be a problem). Mar 29, 2009
Jordan Ramey
Calgary, Alberta
Jordan Ramey   Calgary, Alberta
One bolt stud remains in the grove where the rope runs for the center route. Avoid running your rope over this stud. It is slightly loose in the sleeve. The right one has the flush sleeve remaining, but the stud is gone. (6/14/07) Jun 14, 2007
Chris Owen
Big Bear Lake
Chris Owen   Big Bear Lake  
The TR bolt anchors which were placed over the lip of the wall have recently been chopped (4/4/07) - however, there are still plenty of ways to set up an anchor. Apr 7, 2007

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