Stoney Point sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many gyms in the area if you need a fix!
Description
Stoney's most popular top-rope wall has some sweet face climbing from 5.7 to 5.11a.
[Hide Comment] The TR bolt anchors which were placed over the lip of the wall have recently been chopped (4/4/07) - however, there are still plenty of ways to set up an anchor.
Apr 7, 2007
[Hide Comment] One bolt stud remains in the grove where the rope runs for the center route. Avoid running your rope over this stud. It is slightly loose in the sleeve. The right one has the flush sleeve remaining, but the stud is gone. (6/14/07)
Jun 14, 2007
[Hide Comment] There are numerous boulders on top; you can sling them quite easily. Be careful of your sling placement, as several have lost (and had to cut) their slings in the past. Cordelettes might be a better option and less prone to pinching.
I slung two boulders with 1" x 30' tubular webbing and used a #2 Omega Pacific Link Cam with a 7mm x 30' cordelette as a backup.
Don't forget to anchor yourself in at the top; you will have to create your master point several feet down to avoid rope drag, and there is nothing to prevent you from decking.
You can rap down, but it's a bit sketchy because you can't weight the master point until you're literally over the ledge (again, if you are anchored in then this should not be a problem).
Mar 29, 2009
[Hide Comment] My sons and I climbed the 10.a and 10.c on 11/27/09. I'm 63 and my sons are 32 and 28. Seems to me that 5.9 and 5.8 are more accurate ratings.
Nov 30, 2009
[Hide Comment] Hmmm - I'll have to go back and look at the 5.10c, it's been along time since I did it, perhaps someone chopped a hold? That's been happening a lot recently.
Jun 4, 2010
[Hide Comment] Went back today and looked at Center and Direct - Ken they stand at 10a and 10c - the start of Direct is bloody hard in my estimation, and the Center Route is probably even crimper than I remember.
Jul 24, 2011
Access Issue: RAIN & WET ROCK
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Big Bear Lake
Calgary, Alberta
I slung two boulders with 1" x 30' tubular webbing and used a #2 Omega Pacific Link Cam with a 7mm x 30' cordelette as a backup.
Don't forget to anchor yourself in at the top; you will have to create your master point several feet down to avoid rope drag, and there is nothing to prevent you from decking.
You can rap down, but it's a bit sketchy because you can't weight the master point until you're literally over the ledge (again, if you are anchored in then this should not be a problem). Mar 29, 2009
Big Bear Lake
Big Bear Lake
Big Bear Lake
Ventura
Big Bear Lake