Between a Rock and a Hard Place  5.10b

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Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 40 feet Consensus:  5.10a/b [details] FA:  Tony Yaniro, Toivo Kodas, and Vaino Kodas, 1981 Submitted By:  Will S on Feb 18, 2007 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (11) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

leading Rock & a Hard Place - photo: Ian McEleney

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Description 

This leaning, almost bombay squeeze chimney is great entertainment for climbers and spectators alike. If you go with the proper side in, the crux is a few feet below where it turns the lip onto the vertical face. Good squeeze technique will see you through the crux, then you're into the fists and soon onto the face where the crack is low angle & easy. If setting a TR on this, be prepared with a good length of static line, you'll want to extend the anchor quite a ways below the top due to a rope pinching chockstone in the crack.

Location 

About 60' right and downhill of Light Sabre, on the next large boulder. The obvious right angling squeeze chimney in a dihedral.

Protection 

Big and bigger.

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BETA PHOTO: "Between a Rock and a Hard Place". Photo by Blitzo...	Starting the climb.	Between a Rock and a Hard Place