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Pywiak Dome
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Aqua Knobby T 
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Aqua Knobby 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 375'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: ?
Season: summer,fall
Page Views: 3,584
Submitted By: Adam on Dec 17, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (53)
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Matt Grieger stands at the bolt that marks the sta...

Description 

First pitch is a nice warm up. The 2nd pitch is why this route is great. It starts steep and technical and stays that way for about 70 feet. There's a bolt about 2/3s up that is your pro for some thin slab moves. They called this R before, but with small cams and nuts, you can pro it just fine. Might be PG-13 to some, but for the area it's not. 3 pitch is a nice crack out.

Location 

North side of the dome. Look for the slab up to a ledge below a black water streak.

Protection 

#2 C4 down to #0 C3.


Photos of Aqua Knobby Slideshow Add Photo
Start of P4 crack, a nice knobby crack.
BETA PHOTO: Start of P4 crack, a nice knobby crack.
Knobby. Tim on P2. 7/2012.  <br /> <br />Photo: Corey Gargano
Knobby. Tim on P2. 7/2012.

Photo: Corey Gargano
Arin Trook on the final pitch of Aqua Knobby.
Arin Trook on the final pitch of Aqua Knobby.
Arin Trook on the runout 5.9 variation start to Aqua Knobby.
Arin Trook on the runout 5.9 variation start to Aq...
Irina gets ready to traverse the final slab moves of the knobalicious first pitch. <br /> <br />June 2009
Irina gets ready to traverse the final slab moves ...
"Aqua Knobby". <br />Photo by Blitzo.
BETA PHOTO: "Aqua Knobby".
Photo by Blitzo.
Bryan Hall pulling the roof on Pitch 1
Bryan Hall pulling the roof on Pitch 1
North side of Pywiak Dome.  Climbers on Aqua Knobby crack (the left running 45 degree crack above the roof w/out the shrubbery)
North side of Pywiak Dome. Climbers on Aqua Knobb...

Comments on Aqua Knobby Add Comment
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By Matthew Fienup
Administrator
From: Ventura, CA
Jul 23, 2007
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

4 pitches of technical climbing.

The 5.8 runout on pitch 2 feels runout not because of the distance between pro, but because a fall will propel you over an overhang and onto the slab below--which will surely hurt. The consequence of a fall is not merely a long slide.
By Aerili
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Jul 6, 2009
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

The second pitch is simply superb. However, I do not see how you could pro up anywhere on the face after leaving the bolt and before making the crack at the end.

We chose the 5.9 bolted-to-5.6 R start: the best option to start p1 I think!

I'd say the scare factor is somewhere between PG13 and R on just a section or two.
By Tommy L-D
Aug 9, 2010

Pitches 2&3 link w/ a 60m, and make for an amazing time.

I wouldn't do it any other way.
By Alexander Nees
From: Grand Junction, CO
Aug 15, 2010

We started with the bolted 5.9 slab start, then linked pitches 2 and 3. Done this way, this is a new favorite TM multi-pitch for me; steep, fun, some good cracks, and just run-out enough to be exciting without being upsetting.

Standing at the bolt that protects the runout, the climbing feels hard and tenuous. But the bolt is protecting the hardest stuff; once you step up and over the overlap it's pretty cruiser to the crack and good gear.
By Tim Wolfe
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Jul 7, 2011
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13

I do this route every time I pass through Toulome. Absolutely wonderful, requires good head but is all there if you use your feet. Still PG 13 I think.
By stuart.h
From: Redwood City
Apr 9, 2013
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

This route has a little bit of everything TM has to offer.

FA: Lloyd Price & Joe Fitchens 7/72