Aqua Knobby 5.9
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| Type: | Trad, 3 pitches, 375 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.9 [details] |
| FA: | ? |
| Season: | summer,fall |
| Submitted By: | Adam on Dec 17, 2006 |
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BETA PHOTO: "Aqua Knobby".
Photo by Blitzo.
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Description First pitch is a nice warm up. The 2nd pitch is why this route is great. It starts steep and technical and stays that way for about 70 feet. There's a bolt about 2/3s up that is your pro for some thin slab moves. They called this R before, but with small cams and nuts, you can pro it just fine. Might be PG-13 to some, but for the area it's not. 3 pitch is a nice crack out.
Location North side of the dome. Look for the slab up to a ledge below a black water streak.
Protection #2 C4 down to #0 C3.
Arin Trook on the runout 5.9 variation start to Aq...
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Arin Trook on the final pitch of Aqua Knobby.
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Matt Grieger stands at the bolt that marks the sta...
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North side of Pywiak Dome. Climbers on Aqua Knobb...
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Irina gets ready to traverse the final slab moves ...
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Knobby. Tim on P2. 7/2012.
Photo: Corey Gargano
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Bryan Hall pulling the roof on Pitch 1
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BETA PHOTO: Start of P4 crack, a nice knobby crack.
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By Matthew Fienup
Administrator
From: Ventura, CA
Jul 23, 2007
rating: 5.9
| 4 pitches of technical climbing.
The 5.8 runout on pitch 2 feels runout not because of the distance between pro, but because a fall will propel you over an overhang and onto the slab below--which will surely hurt. The consequence of a fall is not merely a long slide. |
By Aerili
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Jul 6, 2009
rating: 5.8
| The second pitch is simply superb. However, I do not see how you could pro up anywhere on the face after leaving the bolt and before making the crack at the end.
We chose the 5.9 bolted-to-5.6 R start: the best option to start p1 I think!
I'd say the scare factor is somewhere between PG13 and R on just a section or two. |
By Tommy L-D
Aug 9, 2010
| Pitches 2&3 link w/ a 60m, and make for an amazing time.
I wouldn't do it any other way. |
By Alexander Nees
From: Grand Junction, CO
Aug 15, 2010
| We started with the bolted 5.9 slab start, then linked pitches 2 and 3. Done this way, this is a new favorite TM multi-pitch for me; steep, fun, some good cracks, and just run-out enough to be exciting without being upsetting.
Standing at the bolt that protects the runout, the climbing feels hard and tenuous. But the bolt is protecting the hardest stuff; once you step up and over the overlap it's pretty cruiser to the crack and good gear. |
By Tim Wolfe
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Jul 7, 2011
rating: 5.9 PG13
| I do this route every time I pass through Toulome. Absolutely wonderful, requires good head but is all there if you use your feet. Still PG 13 I think. |
By stuart.h
From: Redwood City
Apr 9, 2013
rating: 5.9
| This route has a little bit of everything TM has to offer.
FA: Lloyd Price & Joe Fitchens 7/72 |
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