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North Summit
Routes Sorted
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Fuck It Dude, Let's Go Bowling T 
Great Chimney, The T 
Hey, This Isn't Kamp's Ridge T 
Kamp's Ridge T 
Valhalla T 
Valhallelujah! T 
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YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a R

Type:  Trad, 5 pitches, 900', Grade III
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a R [details]
FA: Les Ellison, Brian & Jonathan Smoot - June 2004
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 2,471
Submitted By: bsmoot on Aug 12, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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Getting near the top, this wall sees zero Sun on t...


This route climbs the smooth slabs just right of the Great Chimney for 5 long, quality pitches to the summit ridge. Begin 1 or 2 pitches up the Great Chimney to where you can traverse right to an obvious tall pine tree along a narrow ledge. Start 20' right of the pine tree and climb the first 200' tier to a diagonal ledge system. The 2nd tier is climbed by diagonaling 500' up & right to the top. Great route & great exposure! Make sure you are good at placing gear. Most of the climbing is 5.7. All belays are bolted. You can rap the route with 2 ropes.


West of The Great Chimney. This route ascends the upper diagonal face


15-20 small nuts & cams (up to a #2 camalot) many runners. 60 meter rope.

Photos of Valhalla Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking down at the tree marking start of P1
Looking down at the tree marking start of P1
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking down P3 - seemed like the crux pitch to me...
Looking down P3 - seemed like the crux pitch to me...
Rock Climbing Photo: Topo

Comments on Valhalla Add Comment
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By James Garrett
Jul 21, 2010

Old School and spicy Team Smoot/Ellison. It felt like a Time Capsule to 1985? Maybe not for 5.12 Sport Climbers who haven't done an apprenticeship in Nut craft? The Pins and Bashies thrown in for good humor, too....maybe some value for markers?
Descent via straight down Great Chimney rappels with one rope. The "trail"/approach is still a burner, but some wonderful people out there have been busy little lumber-jacks carrying little saws and doing appreciated maintenance. It has been awhile since I've been up there, but if it is the Guides...Saint status for all of you!
By Les Ellison
Nov 2, 2010
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R

Excellent route that should see more traffic. The approach is a bit of a grind, but this climb has a real alpine feel to it. Get a super early start! A competent 5.8 climber should be comfortable here. I like to hike/climb both peaks of Mt. Olympus and descend down the Petes Rock Trail. A couple of run-out sections, but small stoppers seem adequate.
By Stan Pitcher
From: SLC, UT
Sep 24, 2013

Another awesome Mt. Oly adventure route on beautiful and bomber rock! This one felt considerably harder than Vallhallelujah so you my want to do that one first to get an idea what these routes are like. At each belay you look up and scratch your head wondering where the route goes and where the next anchor may be! I did not find either of fixed copperheads on P1 or the pin on P5 but they did not seem necessary, pro can be found every now and then and hopefully the anchors too!

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