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5.9 R, Trad, 900 ft, 5 pitches, Grade III,  Avg: 3 from 4 votes
FA: Les Ellison, Brian & Jonathan Smoot - June 2004
Utah > Wasatch Range > Mt Olympus > N Summit


This route climbs the smooth slabs just right of the Great Chimney for 5 long, quality pitches to the summit ridge. Begin 1 or 2 pitches up the Great Chimney to where you can traverse right to an obvious tall pine tree along a narrow ledge. Start 20' right of the pine tree and climb the first 200' tier to a diagonal ledge system. The 2nd tier is climbed by diagonaling 500' up & right to the top. Great route & great exposure! Make sure you are good at placing gear. Most of the climbing is 5.7. All belays are bolted. You can rap the route with 2 ropes.


West of The Great Chimney. This route ascends the upper diagonal face


15-20 small nuts & cams (up to a #2 camalot) many runners. 60 meter rope.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Getting near the top, this wall sees zero Sun on the fall equinox.
[Hide Photo] Getting near the top, this wall sees zero Sun on the fall equinox.
Looking down at the tree marking start of P1
[Hide Photo] Looking down at the tree marking start of P1
Looking down P3 - seemed like the crux pitch to me.
[Hide Photo] Looking down P3 - seemed like the crux pitch to me.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

[Hide Comment] Old School and spicy Team Smoot/Ellison. It felt like a Time Capsule to 1985? Maybe not for 5.12 Sport Climbers who haven't done an apprenticeship in Nut craft? The Pins and Bashies thrown in for good humor, too....maybe some value for markers?
Descent via straight down Great Chimney rappels with one rope. The "trail"/approach is still a burner, but some wonderful people out there have been busy little lumber-jacks carrying little saws and doing appreciated maintenance. It has been awhile since I've been up there, but if it is the Guides...Saint status for all of you! Jul 21, 2010
Les Ellison
  5.8 R
[Hide Comment] Excellent route that should see more traffic. The approach is a bit of a grind, but this climb has a real alpine feel to it. Get a super early start! A competent 5.8 climber should be comfortable here. I like to hike/climb both peaks of Mt. Olympus and descend down the Petes Rock Trail. A couple of run-out sections, but small stoppers seem adequate. Nov 2, 2010
Stan Pitcher
[Hide Comment] Another awesome Mt. Oly adventure route on beautiful and bomber rock! This one felt considerably harder than Vallhallelujah so you my want to do that one first to get an idea what these routes are like. At each belay you look up and scratch your head wondering where the route goes and where the next anchor may be! I did not find either of fixed copperheads on P1 or the pin on P5 but they did not seem necessary, pro can be found every now and then and hopefully the anchors too! Sep 24, 2013
b Light
Salt Lake City, Utah
[Hide Comment] First pitch... Start 15 feet to the right of the big tree. Climb the "crack/weakness" up. Look for the shiny anchors. you can see them from the ground.
2nd Pitch -> Head right from the belay to a pin, 10 feet to the right of the belay. Generally trend up and right. Belay at the large ledge.
3rd Pitch -> We went right on the ledge. Don't do this. It wasn't bad, but it isn't the way to the gully. Head up and left around the ridge. Look for a small tree with slings around it. Belay from there. Then rap in the gully. I don't think "Stepping across" is even possible. You should rap into the gully and start the final slab.

4th pitch... Look for a bolt with a red runner on it.

no more information after that because we didn't finish. Jun 25, 2017