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Routes in North Summit

Fuck It Dude, Let's Go Bowling T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Great Chimney, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Hey, This Isn't Kamp's Ridge T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Kamp's Ridge T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Traverse to South Summit T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c
Valhalla T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Valhallelujah! T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 150 ft
FA: Peter Gram, Andrew Gram 6/12/04
Page Views: 1,601 total, 10/month
Shared By: Peter Gram on Jun 11, 2004
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Description

This pitch is an undesirable variation to start Kamp's Ridge. Follow the approach listed to the turnoff, then carefully locate the obscure stream bed drainage coming down from the right. Do not go into the trees which are really thick up higher. Follow this drainage up to another drainage split on the left which has some tricky scrambling up polished rock. We climbed up some lower 5th class stuff on the rock to the right to avoid a slippery waterfall. From here, hike up on the right side of some slabs up to the start of Kamp's Ridge on the left.

The lower section of Kamp's Ridge has an obvious notch which should probably be avoided. So, I got psyched about a steep direct pitch to avoid this notch. Unfortunately, the direct start leads to nowhere, and doesn't connect to Kamp's Ridge. If you choose to do this route, start up easy slabby rock on a buttress right of Kamp's Ridge, separated by a steep nasty gully.

P1) Either rope up or solo this easy pitch for 170 feet or so to a tree which can be used for an anchor. 4th class

P2) Just above the belay tree, pass another small but very solid tree. Sling this, as pro above is tricky. Gain a shelf 10 feet above. A low green Alien placement protects a tricky bulgy move through this bad rock off the shelf. Head up easier rock (red alien placement) to a leftward traverse into a small hands crack (red Camalot sized crack). Jam the only good part of the route, then make a leftward traverse through easy dirty rock. A shelf is gained, with a giant tree up and left. Protect here low (#2 Camalot), then a steep, slabby face tops out at a bulge mantle with loose rock (maybe a couple moves of 5.9?). Reach the giant belay tree. 150 feet

Descent) Two single rope raps around trees (60m rope) gets one to a steep downclimb through a gully which leads back to the base. At this point, climbing this route didn't gain you any progress towards anything. So, in honor of the Big Lebowski, go bowling.

Protection

Small to medium gear. I placed sizes from a green Alien up to a #2 Camalot.

Photos

steve edwards
SLC, UT
steve edwards   SLC, UT
I think it's the best route name in the database. Went okay for me. The Dude's car got a little beat up. Sep 9, 2013
Andrew Gram
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.7
Andrew Gram   Salt Lake City, UT  
  5.7
Space isn't a big issue - you don't have to look at a route description if you don't want to, and the server has room for millions of routes.

If nothing else, this route description is a good warning of what not to do since it looked very appealing, but it wasn't good and dead ended on us. The route wasn't quite as bad as Peter describes, but it wasn't terribly pleasant either. The route is on a buttress right of the main part of Kamp's Ridge and separated by a nasty tree and mud filled gash. If you happen to do it, we left 2 rap anchors so you can get down with one rope and a fair amount of scrambling. The first ramp is at a big tree before the buttress turns into dirt and bush scrambling, and the second rap is in the gully about 80' below the first anchor.

As a funny aside, the route name might drive up traffic to the site. The most common search term people use to get to climbingmoab is "Visible Panty Line" - a route on Wall Street. Jun 13, 2004
John J. Glime
Salt Lake City, UT
John J. Glime   Salt Lake City, UT
uhhh...mmm...well...uhhhh, maybe i am a little confused as to the purpose of these sites... maybe i am just grumpy this morning, but i would first like to say that i have the utmost respect for peter and andrew... their (your) contributions from the black hills to southern utah are fantastic and appreciated. however, what is the point of posting a bomb on the website? the exploratory nature of a first ascent is always awesome and fun, but when at the end of the day you know that it sucks, why tell us about it? no one is going to want to climb it... why waste the time and space? (kind of like me writing this, i guess) a final thought, i realize that i have lived in salt lake city too long when the would "fuck" grabs my attention and makes me question if it was necessary to use that word... but after coming to my senses, i would like to applaud your sense of calling your route whatever the hell you pleased. Jun 13, 2004