All Locations > Utah > Wasatch Range > Central Wasatch > Mt Olympus > N Summit

Turf War

Name: Turf War
Rating: 2.7

WI3 M5 Mod. Snow

Routes in North Summit

L › R R › L A › Z

	Fuck It Dude, Let's Go Bowling T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Great Chimney, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Hey, This Isn't Kamp's Ridge T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
	Kamp's Ridge T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Traverse to South Summit T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c
	Turf War T WI3 M5 Mod. Snow
	Valhalla T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
	Valhallelujah! T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
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Type:	Trad, Mixed, Ice, Snow, 800 ft (242 m), 5 pitches, Grade III
FA:	DV & Miles Tobin (ground up)
Page Views:	775 total · 16/month
Shared By:	Dylan Valvo on May 15, 2020
Admins:	Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C Page Updates (admin only)

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Description

Winter Conditions March

Pitch 1 Climb up thin smear of ice and turf. Above this is a section of snow with a large chimney. This is the first crux. Stem, jam, and hook your way up and then climb slab to a belay spot below wide crack. M5

Pitch 2 Climb the super fun offwidth to a snow field. Once in snow field climb right to belay below a slab leading to a large left facing corner system. M4

Pitch 3 Climb steep snow into slab and eventually gaining the massive corner. Climb this corner through the tricky overhang and belay above. M5

Pitch 4 Climb to the large ledge just above and walk left to gain the left facing corner system. Climb this and when the rope drag is enough build belay or belay of tree. M4

Pitch 5 One last pitch of snow and easy mixed climbing takes you into the trees and to the top of the north summit. From here either rap the route via blocks and trees or continue to the proper summit of Mount Olympus. M3

Location

To find this climb approach as if going to climb The Great Chimney. Before entering the upper approach gulley leading to the start of The Great Chimney cut climbers left across a tree covered ridge and then up towards the face on 45 degree snow. There will be a thin smear of ice with a large chimney above. Chop a belay ledge here. Above and right of the chimney you can see a large left facing corner that you will eventually gain on the 3rd pitch.