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Routes in North Summit

Fuck It Dude, Let's Go Bowling T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Great Chimney, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Hey, This Isn't Kamp's Ridge T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Kamp's Ridge T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Traverse to South Summit T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c
Valhalla T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Valhallelujah! T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 850 ft, 6 pitches, Grade III
FA: Brian & Jonathan Smoot, Les Ellison, Laura Ellison - June 2007
Page Views: 2,708 total, 22/month
Shared By: bsmoot on Aug 12, 2007
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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This route, and it's neighbor to the the East, Vallalla, offer the best long quartzite routes I've done in the Wasatch. The climbing is clean, exposed and adventurous. The rock is steeper, cleaner and smoother than the "West Slabs". Route finding and protection is challenging, but the climbing for the most part is moderate. Great setting!

Start at the bottom left side of the face.

P1 - A 135' moderate pitch leads to a long ledge with pine trees.
P3 - From the right end of the ledge, diagonal up & right past 2 fixed pins and a crack to a vertical crack which is followed to a bolted belay.(160')
P3 - Diagonal right to another crack which is followed to a prominent pine tree. (150')
P4 - Continue diagonaling up 150' to a belay hole.(belay bolts)
P5 - Trend up & right to a long narrow roof. A small tree protects the move over it. Above, a pin & bolt protect the sparse face above. The exposed belay is at 2 bolts.(170')
P6 - Ascend the face above past an arch to the top.


Begin at the approach gully for the Great Chimney. Ascend the largest and lowest of the 3 prominent diagonaling walls west of the Great Chimney. Approach takes 2 - 2.5 hours.


2 each cams from a #0 TCU to a #2 Camalot. 1 each #3 & #4 Camalots. Small & medium nuts. 55 meter ropes.


b Light
Salt Lake City, Utah
b Light   Salt Lake City, Utah
We did this in four pitches.
1st pitch to the big ledge with the tree. There is a rap station on the big tree. Traverse right to the end of the ledge to start the second pitch.
2nd pitch -> head up and right. We passed a piton
3rd Pitch -> Head up and right... shooting for anchors 40 feet below the big dead tree on the left side of the roof. Nice belay
4th Pitch -> Up to the left of a big tree (live) at the roof... continued past the anchor, past the arch (the arch is super small... maybe 1 foot arch) to a tree with slings.

We tried to combing with with Valhalla.
To do this... Walk climbers left past the belay tree and around the corner. Scramble down into the gully (5.2 section). Aim for a tall tree in the center of the gulley. Rap from there to the top of a big chimney. One more rap from there (we left a three nut anchor) will put you near the Big tree just right of the great chimney.

Rack - Single Green, red and yellow C3. Offsets (.2/.3 -> .5/.75 - very useful), doubles .3 -> 3. Single (optional?) #4. 10 shoulder slings. 3-48" slings.
80 Meter rope.

There was still a sizable snow field that guarded the approach to the first pitch. Crampons or Yak Tracks or a Ice Tool would have been awesome. A slip or fall would be bad. Jun 25, 2017
Salt Lake City
zak   Salt Lake City
Bring garden clippers, a path through the bushes needs to be cut out at the bottom of the approach gully just above the slab start to Kamp's ridge. Jul 20, 2015
Scramble up and over the ridge crest and then rapping the Great Chimney is possible. That's what we did. May 25, 2014
Anyone know if you can rap off the top of the route straight down with two 60m ropes or do you need to go to the summit and take one of the paths down from there?

Any other way to get to some rap stations? May 23, 2014
Stan Pitcher
  5.7 R
Stan Pitcher   SLC, UT
  5.7 R
Fun route - Oly always delivers! A couple of notes - the first pitch was almost a full 60 meters. The pins are hard to see, we never found the 2nd one on the 2nd pitch or the one on the last pitch. On the pitches leading to the bolted belays (2,4) we went up too much and had to trend down and right to find them so maybe think a little more right and up instead of up and right. Good rock quality but not a lot of gear placements - if I did again I'd only bring a single set of cams and assortment of nuts, large to small. Doubles of the smaller cams might be useful. The last two pitches can be combined with a 60m. Aug 6, 2012