Type: Trad, 850 ft (258 m), 6 pitches, Grade III
FA: Brian & Jonathan Smoot, Les Ellison, Laura Ellison - June 2007
Page Views: 4,325 total · 21/month
Shared By: bsmoot on Aug 12, 2007
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C

You & This Route

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Description Suggest change

This route, and it's neighbor to the the East, Vallalla, offer the best long quartzite routes I've done in the Wasatch. The climbing is clean, exposed and adventurous. The rock is steeper, cleaner and smoother than the "West Slabs". Route finding and protection is challenging, but the climbing for the most part is moderate. Great setting!

Start at the bottom left side of the face.

P1 - A 135' moderate pitch leads to a long ledge with pine trees.
P3 - From the right end of the ledge, diagonal up & right past 2 fixed pins and a crack to a vertical crack which is followed to a bolted belay.(160')
P3 - Diagonal right to another crack which is followed to a prominent pine tree. (150')
P4 - Continue diagonaling up 150' to a belay hole.(belay bolts)
P5 - Trend up & right to a long narrow roof. A small tree protects the move over it. Above, a pin & bolt protect the sparse face above. The exposed belay is at 2 bolts.(170')
P6 - Ascend the face above past an arch to the top.

Location Suggest change

Begin at the approach gully for the Great Chimney. Ascend the largest and lowest of the 3 prominent diagonaling walls west of the Great Chimney. Approach takes 2 - 2.5 hours.

Protection Suggest change

2 each cams from a #0 TCU to a #2 Camalot. 1 each #3 & #4 Camalots. Small & medium nuts. 55 meter ropes.