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Routes in North Summit

Fuck It Dude, Let's Go Bowling T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Great Chimney, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Hey, This Isn't Kamp's Ridge T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Kamp's Ridge T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Traverse to South Summit T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c
Valhalla T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Valhallelujah! T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
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Description

The North Summit of Mt. Olympus is slightly lower than the main South summit, at 8,959 feet. It is the complex shield of low angle quartzite seen from most of Salt Lake City. On the far right is the West slabs, and rising up on the left skyline is a ridge called Kamp's Ridge. The Great Chimney also climbs a line up to the North Summit, right of Kamp's. With the massive amounts of rock here, some first ascents could definitely be possible too.

Getting There

The trailhead for this side of Mt. Olympus is the same as for Neff's Canyon. Take 3800 South east from Wasatch Blvd. (towards Mill Creek Canyon). At the stop sign, take a right on Park View Drive. After several changes in direction on this road, take a left on Park Terrace, and then a right on White Way which leads to the obvious Neff's Canyon trailhead parking.

Follow the well defined trail which quickly junctions with a road. Follow the road to a junction 10-15 minutes walk up at a stream crossing. Take a right here, crossing the stream, then follow the trail which goes from well defined to fairly obscure following stream beds. After another 10-15 minutes, another split in the trail is found. A cairn marks a right turn which immediately crosses a small creek. Follow this trail for a small while (couple of minutes), then eventually cut into a drainage coming in from the right. Look for a good way through this - otherwise the bushwhacking can be heinous! This drainage leads up to Kamp's Ridge and the Great Chimney.

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Classic Climbing Routes at North Summit

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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Arie
Smog Lake City, Utah
Arie   Smog Lake City, Utah
The Memorial Couloirs can offer a quick descent from the North Summit climbs. We've been summit to car in less than 40 minutes using the main chute when it's filled with snow (without snow it become far more treacherous and should be avoided; also, with snow, wall to wall wet slides are possible).

Use caution though- the obvious line out of the immediate saddle cliffs out. The main line is a little less obvious and the entire length to the canyon floor is visible from the top treed headwall. There used to be a fixed line out of the 'Chimney' notch into the couloirs but I think it finally rotted out.

Anyhow, the main chute deposits you back in North's Fork (couple of short route-finding downclimbs), near where, on the ascent, you turn right into the 'hidden couloir' route to the Great Chimney. In the right conditions it's a fun exit to an occasionally tortuous descent. May 14, 2008

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