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GPS: 40.6569, -111.771
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Shared By: Peter Gram on Jun 12, 2004
Admins: Drew Brodhead, Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane, Nathan Fisher
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Description Suggest change

The North Summit of Mt. Olympus is slightly lower than the main South summit, at 8,959 feet. It is the complex shield of low angle quartzite seen from most of Salt Lake City. On the far right is the West slabs, and rising up on the left skyline is a ridge called Kamp's Ridge. The Great Chimney also climbs a line up to the North Summit, right of Kamp's. With the massive amounts of rock here, some first ascents could definitely be possible too.

Getting There Suggest change

The trailhead for this side of Mt. Olympus is the same as for Neff's Canyon. Take 3800 South east from Wasatch Blvd. (towards Mill Creek Canyon). At the stop sign, take a right on Park View Drive. After several changes in direction on this road, take a left on Park Terrace, and then a right on White Way which leads to the obvious Neff's Canyon trailhead parking.

Follow the well defined trail which quickly junctions with a road. Follow the road to a junction 10-15 minutes walk up at a stream crossing. Take a right here, crossing the stream, then follow the trail which goes from well defined to fairly obscure following stream beds. After another 10-15 minutes, another split in the trail is found. A cairn marks a right turn which immediately crosses a small creek. Follow this trail for a small while (couple of minutes), then eventually cut into a drainage coming in from the right. Look for a good way through this - otherwise the bushwhacking can be heinous! This drainage leads up to Kamp's Ridge and the Great Chimney.

8 Total Climbs

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Location: North Summit Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at North Summit

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c
 6
● Traverse to South Summit
Trad
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 49
● Kamp's Ridge
Trad 8 pitches
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
 7
● Valhallelujah!
Trad 6 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
 8
● Valhalla
Trad 5 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
● Traverse to South Summit
 6
Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c Trad
● Kamp's Ridge
 49
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad 8 pitches
● Valhallelujah!
 7
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R Trad 6 pitches
● Valhalla
 8
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R Trad 5 pitches
More Classic Climbs in North Summit »

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Route lines high on the North face of Mt. Olympus
Route lines high on the North face of Mt. Olympus
 5
50 feet from the top of The Great Chimney. The main crack system was a little wet from previous rain and the rock off to the sides was kind of loose. Saw a fixed stopper. The anchors on this route were poor in my opinion. One was old webbing around a rock backed up by a rusty knife blade. I soloed up to this point but was happy to have a rope mostly for the descent off the back. I rapped off a tree just behind the summit and my 70 meter rope barely got me down. Would have been sol with a 60 on that location. The descent on the back gully also required rappelling down a waterfall and climbing down a rope ladder. Just a thought. Wanna go up there with a drill and get some good anchors in. It said you can rap the while route but I didn't see any anchor at the top. Cams up to # 2 or 3. Stoppers and TCU's. Take water and headlamp if its your first time.
50 feet from the top of The Great Chimney. The…
 5
Closer view of Mt. Olympus from the NW (3/30/2003)
Closer view of Mt. Olympus from the NW (3/30/2003)
 0
'The Great Chimney'
'The Great Chimney'
 0
A rusty relic with a pice of someones cordelette tied to it so you can equalize it off of the rope around the rock wedged in the crack. I wasn't going to rap on that crap. I guess it would hold you but Im fine walking down.
A rusty relic with a pice of someones cordelett…
 0
Just a view looking up the crack system near the top. The bottom is pretty easy. Kind of stemming and scrambling. There was a bolted anchor about 1 or 200 feet up with blue webbing not equalized. Webbing probably needs replaced. Didn't look at it closely. A pitch above that was the really crumby anchor and then I didn't see any anchor beyond that one. Some leaver biners or rap rings would be nice. Sorry but old webbing is just sketch. The rock was really nice though and with gear and a partner the climb would be a great day. Helmet is good for potential rockfall.
Just a view looking up the crack system near th…
 0
North Face of Mt Olympus
North Face of Mt Olympus
 0

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