|Type:||Trad, Alpine, 13 pitches, Grade II|
|Original:||YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]|
|Submitted By:||Hans on Dec 2, 2007|
|Comments on Brewer Buttress||Add Comment|
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By Clint Landrock
Jun 17, 2014
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
|Great alpine rock climb, consistent at the grade featuring some very nice exposure. Get the new Banff Rock book for the best beta/topo. Most pitches feature very secure climbing in the 5.4-5.6 range however pitches 7, 11 and 12 (last pitch variation) I felt were more in the 5.7/8 range and held some of the best climbing. For comparison we did Aftonroe (5.7, 9 pitch sport) the previous day, and the harder pitches on Brewers were easily as challenging or more so than those on Aftonroe. Notably the rock on Brewers was as good if not better than Aftonroe which is said to have some of "the best quality limestone anywhere in the Rockies". There ample places for pro on all the hard pitches. The "crux" pitch 9 has only one hard move (5.9ish) protected by a good bolt - you could pull the bolt to bypass the move, and the rest is 5.6 or easier. You can combine pitches 3 and 4 as well as pitches 9 and 10 with a 70m rope. We did the climb in mid-June and the large bay at the start of pitch 1 was filled with ~10m of snow, so I tried combining the 1st and 2nd pitches but rope drag was too much of an issue. If you soloed pitch 1 than it could be doable. Soloing pitch 1 is definitely an option, we climbed it in our hiking boots as we didn't want to put our rock shoes on in the deep snow, and it was pretty easy going despite some loose rock. Exposure-wise, pitches 6, 8 and 11 are highlights, definitely try to stop mid-pitch and take it in. We brought ice axes with us to the summit and were happy we have them for the descent. The snowpack was deep (~1m or more in places) and was very soft in the afternoon sun - we did lots of post-holing. The descent gully was full of snow and would have made for some insecure down climbing in steep snow w/o an axe. The descent from the top of Brewers back to the hut took us ~3 hours due to the deep snow pack.|
By Tom Gnyra
Jul 30, 2016
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Great climb. Some things to note:
1. go easy on the pro. Every anchor is bolted (or pins) and so there really is no need for more than 1 set of cams .3 to 4. The 4 is a small luxury that I'd even consider ditching
2. Most of this climb has sparse gear. You should be really solid with huge runouts. A "don't fall" attitude is a must
3. if it feels hard (except for the 5.7 pitch) you are off route.
4. Pitch 8 is around a corner. There seems to be some fixed mank above you but don't aim for that. That pitch is way less than 20m
5. generally we found pitch lengths to be wrong.
6. one could probably link the first two pitches with a bit of simuclimbing if the rope ends up being too short. but that said, i think the pitch lengths are wrong. 3&4 could be linked also, maybe. Others that we linked were 6&7 (drag was a slight issue due to the final traverse, easily avoidable) 9&10.
7. rap to the skiers right, always, on the descent gully. there is snow if you rap left