Type: Trad, Alpine
FA: E. Fuez and J. Hickson, 1926
Page Views: 5,433 total · 92/month
Shared By: Hans Bauck on Jul 31, 2015
Admins: Dave Rone, Tom Gnyra

You & This Route


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Description

The SE face of Eisenhower Tower is a novel adventure climb on excellent Canadian Rockies limestone (an oxymoron if I ever heard one) and is highly recommended.
The SE face of Eisenhower Tower
Upper portion of the SE face of Eisenhower Tower
The Right Variation
The Left Variation
Move left into and across the scree bowl and climb the rib left of the bowl to it's top in 1-2 leads.

Easy ground leads to a final steep section. Two pitches leads to the top from here past three bolted anchors

There and Back Again

Take the Rockbound Lake approach as per the Castle Mountain page. This leads directly to the base of the tower.
The exposed ledge traverse on the Rockbound Lake approach
The top of the scrambling section of the Rockbound Lake approach
Descent
Take the left variation. The first bolted rappel anchor is about 5-10 metres down, though there is a tat anchor at the rim if the down climb seems too sketchy.

Three single rappels from bolted anchors, or some straightforward down climbing, leads to a flatter section. Follow this to a bolted anchor at the top of the scree bowl and at the top of the rib.

Make a 30m rappel to another chain anchor located climber's right on a ledge. Rappelling from here leads to easy terrain in the scree bowl. Descend the bowl then traverse climber's right to a chain anchor on top of the wall where the left and right routes diverge.

Three rappels, or two with some easy down climbing, lead to the anchor at the top of the short wall where the Dragon's Back meets the tower.

Rappel from this anchor down the wall, then continue rappelling down the gully to the east to reach the next anchor at a full 30m. Two more rappels lead to the ground.

Beta

A 60 metre single rope is fine, as is a light rack. I ended up soloing the route as my partner wasn't feeling well, so I cannot comment on gear specifics. Having said that, it appeared that a single rack of cams to BD #2 or #3 with a few nuts would be sufficient.

You come very close to the base of the route on descent so if you choose to use rock shoes on the climb you can leave your approach shoes at the base.

Despite the easy climbing this is still a time consuming route.

Photos

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