The Moat

The only fully bolted route up the lower tier. 

P1: It begins at the toe of an obvious prow on the tier beneath Castles in the Sky. Up weird rock. 5.10 20m

P2: The positive features are tricky to read and the feet are far apart. The nearly 30-metre second pitch has a definite 5.11+ crux that lasts three or four bolts with few rests. Two bolts below the anchor is the first jug, which looks like it wants to snap off but is solid. 5.11c 30m

P3: Steep! From the belay, you climb incut holds to a traverse below a roof. At the end of the roof, reach up and around to a good crack that climbs a less-than-perfect tower. The bolts are about five metres apart here due to the lack of solid rock for more. This section is heads-up territory and a difficult but more solid line climbs slightly right of the crack. From there, move onto the arete and climb the side-pull crux up to a no-hands alcove rest. The final few bolts have hero climbing to a final 5.11+ move from a good hold to a razor-sharp tooth and slippery slopers. Right into a roof with some hallow rock. 5.11c 30m

P4: The last pitch has the best rock on the route and for the first few bolts is 5.11-. The crux is a number of big moves that begins with one to a half-moon-shaped right-facing hold. From there, battle the crimps and underclings to position yourself on the overhanging prow. Hard moves gets you to the ledge below Castles in the Sky. Continue up and belay from the upper anchor. 

From here, you can continue up Castles in the Sky, only another five pitches up to 5.14, or head back to the Eisenhower Tower trail by traversing the ledge right. The traverse is a hike on a steep slope above the lower cliff band and has bolts for the first 100 metres for those who wish to stay roped up. The second half of the traverse is on lower-angled terrain, but stay high until you can hook around to the east-facing base of the first Eisenhower tier and trail. The hike to the car takes just over an hour.

To approach, take the Rockbound Lake trail to the Lost Lemon crag turnoff. Continue about 250 metres and head up left through the forest to a drainage. Once at the wall, The Moat prow is obvious.

18 quickdraws, 60m rope