Prayer for a Friend

The King line! If you’ve ever looked at a photo of Prusik Peak you have seen this face. Starts in the obvious dihedral to the left of Der sportsman, then cuts right to head straight up to the base of the splitter headwall in the sky. 

Pitch 1:(5.9) slab rambling in a corner over a few roofs to a two bolt belay. ~50m

Pitch 2: (5.11+) head up and left to the base of some overlapping flakes/roofs, step out onto the face and undercling your way into a more secure stem box (RAD) belay at two offset bolts. ~30m

Pitch 3: (5.11) the Numbah 9 pitch. Climb the corner to a cruxy flare section reminiscent of the lower town wall classic Numbah 10 (don’t worry it’s not nearly as hard) belay at a two bolt anchor. ~20m

Pitch 4: (5.12-) follow obvious hand crack till you can step right to a bolt, pull on some suspect rock and get yourself up to the next bolt, get ready to try as you pull through the next two bolts to easier terrain to the top (either a blue totem or a .3-.4 offset is nice for this pitch. Belay on obvious ledge with two bolt anchor. ~30m

Pitch 5: (5.11) clip the first bolt and head left to some cams, then up the many left leaning seams, tricky but not too bad. Unfortunately subpar rock on this one makes it feel a bit more tedious. ~15m 

Pitch 6: (5.14a) The first 5 pitches are great appetizers but this is the main course, beautiful face and twin cracks up the sweeping headwall. Start with some 5.11 Liebacking up some less that perfect rock to a bolt on the face, rest a bit and head up until you can step over into the finger splitter to the right, place some gear and hold on for some steep, sustained and sequential finger locking ~15-20 hard moves in a row. Stem up to a single bolt belay that can be backed up with a purple or green cam. This pitch ends on the west ridge. ~35m

Scramble the rest of the way up the west ridge to the summit! 

Starts on obvious easy corner to the left of Der Sportsman.

4 black totems were nice, then doubles from .3-1 with single 2 and 3.