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Routes in The Temple of Tao
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Dragon Enters the Corner T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 |
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Drunken Master T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Frog Prince, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Heng Chuan Corner T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Hobson’s Choice T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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My Turn T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Penguin Arete T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Tao-yin S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Treacherous T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Vulgar Display of Power T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Your Turn T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Zig Zag Rope Drag T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
| Type: | Trad, 160 ft (48 m), 2 pitches |
| GPS: | 40.4357, -105.31041 |
| FA: | Rob DeZonia and Jake Hains |
| Page Views: | 1,231 total · 7/month |
| Shared By: | Rob DeZonia on Sep 3, 2011 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Access Issue: Access issue - Monastery, Cedar Park, Combat Rock, etc. - open since 2023
Details
Per JF M: as of May 2022, there is no signage on-site, nor information on the USFS webpage for the Cameron Peak Fire (nor on their published map of closures) that indicates the area is closed.
Per Bruce Hildenbrand: it appears that the Forest Service has closed access to all the climbing areas accessed via Storm Mountain Road (Monastery, Cedar Park, Combat Rock, etc.) until they can clear all the dangerous dead trees from the Cameron Peak fire.
I worked this issue with Eric Murdock at the AF, and it looks like the Forest Service picked Devil's Gulch Road as the southern boundary even though all the climbing areas on MP.com were not burned.
Description
This climb pieces many clean cracks together. I originally led it in one pitch, but I recomend climbing it in two.
P1. (10a) We started right off Duncan's Ledge and climbed up 10' to a little roof that goes into a clean, right-facing corner with a hand crack. I think there is an old steel or tin beer can wedged deep in the crack. This led to the route name. Pull into the crack at about 10a and climb up to a giant ledge. You can reach this same ledge from the left by climbing some 5.4 chimney. From here, move up left to the large corner system and climb up around 10-20' to where have many options. The rock is amazing here. Move up and left make a steep move into another right-facing corner that heads up towards a very steep section of the wall. Climb 30 feet or so up and move left under the steep section to a ledge in a large, left-facing corner left of the beautiful arete and set up belay.
P2. (10a) Climb up the beautiful corner on stellar rock. Many little cruxes followed by easy sections take you up to a point where there is a tree growing out of a slab. Move out left around tree and up slab corner towards its top and pull a little bulge into a groove corner. Climb this a was till the angle eases off and you feel like setting up belay. From up here, you can scramble or almost just walk up to the top and the descent.
Location
This route is left (west) of Vulgar Display of Power by about 70' or more. It follows the right side of the main steep section of the southern portion of the crag.
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