Avg: 2 from 3 votes
|Type:||Trad, 170 ft|
|FA:||Rob DeZonia and Mike DeZonia|
|Page Views:||754 total · 7/month|
|Shared By:||Rob DeZonia on Sep 3, 2011|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac|
Climb up 25 feet of easy ledges and blocks (5.4) to where the super clean rock starts and pull the first crux past the clean, right-facing corner. You can crush the corner or dance up the slab, both are 5.9. Continue up and around a small tree to a steeper section with a splitter in the corner and a crack to the right, perfect for stemming (5.8). This takes you to a jug rail and a little tree on the left. Pull the small bulge into a tricky and technical right facing corner. Work your way up corner to a litte roof with a clean corner out its right side (5.9). You can get a nice yellow Alien in a small horizontal crack below the roof to the left. Reach out left to a good hold and do a move up to a thank god jug (5.9+). Hand traverse back right to above the roof (5.6) and back into the corner. Climb the corner till about 20 or so feet from its top. You can go out right to crack (5.7 top out) or out left via a nice horizontal crack (5.8) and up a crack system to a tree belay (5.8). I like going out left.
When I first climbed this with my father, I was expecting a 5.6 or something. This has a lot of climbing on it and is an excellent 5.9 even with some dirt filled cracks.
Heng Chuan is the earth element in Hsingi Chuan, a Taoist martial art.