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Routes in The Temple of Tao

Dragon Enters the Corner T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Drunken Master T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Frog Prince, The T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Heng Chuan Corner T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
My Turn T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Penguin Arete T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Treacherous T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Vulgar Display of Power T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Your Turn T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Zig Zag Rope Drag T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 170 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Robert DeZonia
Page Views: 822 total, 11/month
Shared By: Rob DeZonia on Sep 3, 2011
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

P1. (5.11b) This is a sustained burl fest. One of the best crack climbs in the area outside of Lumpy or Vedauwoo. It takes a steep layback flake to an overhanging fist crack in a right-leaning, right-facing corner. The fist crack turns into hands and a pumpy lieback before the grade eases off. The rock is awesome.

Start by climbing a fun 5.6 chimeny onto the top of a little, leaning block. You can also start by scrambling up from the left on easy fifth class to this point. Pull up into a slabby, left-facing corner that becomes the right-facing flake. A 5.10+ finger lock gains you the flake.

Climb up to a ledge around 80' or 90' I thing. I think #1 and 2 Camalot sizes will provide a decent belay.

P2. (5.9) Work your way up into the right-facing corner above. I like to move out right at a crack on the left as soon as the ange of the climb eases and belay from a tree just below the summit on the slab. A crack that fits a nice large nut will back up the tree.

Location

As you approach the crag, you can't help but notice an intimidating steep crack line 30' left of a large, low angle, right-facing corner system on the east end of the crag.

Protection

Bring at least double of finger and hand sized. Two #3 Camalots and a #4 for the crux. A double rack from tips to fist will still have you committed on this beauty.

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