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Routes in The Temple of Tao
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Dragon Enters the Corner T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 |
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Drunken Master T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Frog Prince, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Heng Chuan Corner T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Hobson’s Choice T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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My Turn T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Penguin Arete T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Tao-yin S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Treacherous T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Vulgar Display of Power T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Your Turn T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Zig Zag Rope Drag T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
| Type: | Trad, 115 ft (35 m) |
| GPS: | 40.4357, -105.31041 |
| FA: | K. Duncan and D. Humphrey, 2016 |
| Page Views: | 935 total · 8/month |
| Shared By: | Ken Duncan on Apr 8, 2016 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Access Issue: Access issue - Monastery, Cedar Park, Combat Rock, etc. - open since 2023
Details
Per JF M: as of May 2022, there is no signage on-site, nor information on the USFS webpage for the Cameron Peak Fire (nor on their published map of closures) that indicates the area is closed.
Per Bruce Hildenbrand: it appears that the Forest Service has closed access to all the climbing areas accessed via Storm Mountain Road (Monastery, Cedar Park, Combat Rock, etc.) until they can clear all the dangerous dead trees from the Cameron Peak fire.
I worked this issue with Eric Murdock at the AF, and it looks like the Forest Service picked Devil's Gulch Road as the southern boundary even though all the climbing areas on MP.com were not burned.
Description
This is 5.11b or 5.10a/b depending on which variation you use to start the climb. It has fun arete climbing on crisp, positive edges with the option of a difficult mantel start. Both variations would be four stars if it weren't for the easier section in the middle.
Gentoo variation (right start), 5.10a/b: climb the easy slab right of the start of Drunken Master past two bolts. Step left to the slab/arete, and ascend it past two more bolts. Climb the easy corner until you can step right onto the face at a bolt, and follow the face and arete to a two bolt anchor.
Emperor variation (left start), 5.11b: follow a left-angling crack to a bolted overhang, do a difficult mantel, then follow Penguin Arete to the anchors.
Descent: rap with a 70m rope which barely reaches. Knot the ends!
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