Avg: 3 from 1 vote
|Type:||Trad, 115 ft (35 m)|
|FA:||K. Duncan and D. Humphrey, 2016|
|Page Views:||577 total · 8/month|
|Shared By:||Ken Duncan on Apr 8, 2016|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC|
I worked this issue with Eric Murdock at the AF, and it looks like the Forest Service picked Devil's Gulch Road as the southern boundary even though all the climbing areas on MP.com were not burned.
Gentoo variation (right start), 5.10a/b: climb the easy slab right of the start of Drunken Master past two bolts. Step left to the slab/arete, and ascend it past two more bolts. Climb the easy corner until you can step right onto the face at a bolt, and follow the face and arete to a two bolt anchor.
Emperor variation (left start), 5.11b: follow a left-angling crack to a bolted overhang, do a difficult mantel, then follow Penguin Arete to the anchors.
Descent: rap with a 70m rope which barely reaches. Knot the ends!