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Routes in The Temple of Tao

Dragon Enters the Corner T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Drunken Master T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Frog Prince, The T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Heng Chuan Corner T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
My Turn T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Penguin Arete T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Treacherous T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Vulgar Display of Power T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Your Turn T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Zig Zag Rope Drag T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 200 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Rob DeZonia and Jake Hains
Page Views: 417 total, 6/month
Shared By: Rob DeZonia on Sep 3, 2011
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

This climb pieces many clean cracks together. I originally led it in one pitch, but I recomend climbing it in two.

P1. (10a) We started right off Duncan's Ledge and climbed up 10' to a little roof that goes into a clean, right-facing corner with a hand crack. I think there is an old steel or tin beer can wedged deep in the crack. This led to the route name. Pull into the crack at about 10a and climb up to a giant ledge. You can reach this same ledge from the left by climbing some 5.4 chimney. From here, move up left to the large corner system and climb up around 10-20' to where have many options. The rock is amazing here. Move up and left make a steep move into another right-facing corner that heads up towards a very steep section of the wall. Climb 30 feet or so up and move left under the steep section to a ledge in a large, left-facing corner left of the beautiful arete and set up belay.

P2. (10a) Climb up the beautiful corner on stellar rock. Many little cruxes followed by easy sections take you up to a point where there is a tree growing out of a slab. Move out left around tree and up slab corner towards its top and pull a little bulge into a groove corner. Climb this a was till the angle eases off and you feel like setting up belay. From up here, you can scramble or almost just walk up to the top and the descent.

Location

This route is left (west) of Vulgar Display of Power by about 70' or more. It follows the right side of the main steep section of the southern portion of the crag.

Protection

A standard rack will get you up the fun route.

Photos

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