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Routes in Cardinal Pinnacle
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Artichoke Crack T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Bard-Harrington Finish T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Cardinal Sin T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Cardinalidae T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Crack Kingdom T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Cucumbers T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Honky Special T,TR 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Passeri T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 |
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Passeriformes T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13 |
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Prow, The T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Red Bush T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Redline S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Regular Route T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Romancing the Stone T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13 |
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Shadow Prow Traverse T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Shadows of the Artichoke T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Shine or Whine T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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V8 Crack T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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West Face T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Where Eagles Dare T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 |
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| Type: | Trad, 550 ft (167 m), 4 pitches |
| FA: | Doug Robinson & Jay Jensen / Dean Hobbs & Andy Selters |
| Page Views: | 10,989 total · 61/month |
| Shared By: | AWinters on Jun 9, 2009 · Updates |
| Admins: | Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Description
An excellent route with cracks of all sizes. It offers just about every crack technique and is highlighted by the 3rd pitch finger crack.
This route links the original routes 'Crack of No Hope' - FA-Doug Robinson/Jay Jensen, and 'Wild Kingdom' - FA-Dean Hobbs/Andy Selters. This combination is the recommended way to go...
Pitch 1: Begin as 'West Face', but at the big ledge near the top of P-1 break left off 'West Face' and traverse along the big ledge, passing the rappel anchor and the obvious off-width. Build a belay at the base of the next short arching crack on a nice little perch. To decrease rope-drag belay at the rap anchor then have the follower continue past to the proper belay stance. (5.10a)
Pitch 2: Climb up the short right-arching crack past broken blocks to a thin chimney on the right side of a large detached block. Tackle the next short off-width then left into the funky flare/V-groove (crux). Follow the easy low-angle chimney to its top then step down and left to belay on a ledge below the obvious left-facing corner. (5.10-)
Pitch 3: Up the nice corner to the steep finger crack that leads up and right out of the corner. Pop over the lip (crux) following the crack out right, then back left to a short traverse around the arete to a short splitter thin-hands crack. Follow this up to a big ledge and belay at the base of the short and thin right-facing flake. (5.10)
Pitch 4: Up the flake (crux), then thru some scrambling to the big ledge below the true summit. Another short 4th class scramble will sit you on the top. (5.10)
Descent: Rappel, downclimb, or lower 40 feet down and right to the first proper rappel station on the exposed block. (5.5) From here you have four 35 meter rappels (two 60m ropes/one 70m)
This route links the original routes 'Crack of No Hope' - FA-Doug Robinson/Jay Jensen, and 'Wild Kingdom' - FA-Dean Hobbs/Andy Selters. This combination is the recommended way to go...
Pitch 1: Begin as 'West Face', but at the big ledge near the top of P-1 break left off 'West Face' and traverse along the big ledge, passing the rappel anchor and the obvious off-width. Build a belay at the base of the next short arching crack on a nice little perch. To decrease rope-drag belay at the rap anchor then have the follower continue past to the proper belay stance. (5.10a)
Pitch 2: Climb up the short right-arching crack past broken blocks to a thin chimney on the right side of a large detached block. Tackle the next short off-width then left into the funky flare/V-groove (crux). Follow the easy low-angle chimney to its top then step down and left to belay on a ledge below the obvious left-facing corner. (5.10-)
Pitch 3: Up the nice corner to the steep finger crack that leads up and right out of the corner. Pop over the lip (crux) following the crack out right, then back left to a short traverse around the arete to a short splitter thin-hands crack. Follow this up to a big ledge and belay at the base of the short and thin right-facing flake. (5.10)
Pitch 4: Up the flake (crux), then thru some scrambling to the big ledge below the true summit. Another short 4th class scramble will sit you on the top. (5.10)
Descent: Rappel, downclimb, or lower 40 feet down and right to the first proper rappel station on the exposed block. (5.5) From here you have four 35 meter rappels (two 60m ropes/one 70m)
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