Type: Trad, 550 ft, 4 pitches
FA: Jay Jensen 1969
Page Views: 28,232 total · 175/month
Shared By: AWinters on Apr 7, 2007 with improvements by Tony Becchio
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

A perfect introduction to the Pinnacle, wandering up the tallest part of the wall.

West Face consists of four pitches featuring great climbing on immaculate white Sierra granite. The route joins up with the second pitch of 'Cucumbers' near the start of pitch 3. As a bonus, the first pitch of 'Cucumbers' can be rapped into and/or top-roped by building an anchor on a good ledge 30 feet to the right of the third pitch belay station of 'The West Face'. We rapped off our gear, pulled ropes and led the first pitch of 'Cukes' (recommended) because it looked too good to pass up, and it was...

Pitch 1: Start at the detached block/flake with finger cracks in both sides (the right side is slightly easier, both 5.8-9ish). Climb cracks and corners with good gear straight up then make a big step out right just below the bush into the next finger crack (crux). Make some fun moves using a thin crack and face holds up to a huge ledge that runs to your left (this will be your last rappel station on your descent), then continue up and right a short distance to a bolt anchor on a ledge. (5.10a)

Pitch 2: Follow the nice clean corner with good hands over the lip, then traverse right towards the next clean-cut, left-facing dihedral. Good features on the face just left of the seam lead to the top of the corner. Step right around the arete (crux) to the bolt anchor on a small but comfortable stance. (5.10a)

Pitch 3: (joins pitch 2 of 'Cucumbers') Step up and traverse right for 20ish feet, continuing straight up on face holds and broken crack systems to the short but sweet finger and hand crack on the slab. Go left at the horizontal break and belay with hand-size cams at the base of the chimney. (5.10a)

Pitch 4: Climb the chimney and handcrack, then instead of going straight up the corner, break left onto semi-chossy face holds to the exposed block with the rappel anchor. (5.7-8)

Descent: Four 35 meter rappels (two 60m ropes/one 70m). On the first rappel head for the (climber's) left side of the giant roof. You can also walk off around the back, but why would you do such a thing?

Location

Hike up the steep talus to the left side of the pinnacle under the giant roofs. Find the short block with cracks up both sides and you're off.

Protection

Standard rack to #3 camalot (#4 possible), bring one or two extra hand-sized cams for the belay at the top of pitch 3.
Two 60m ropes/one 70m.

Photos