Type: Trad, 550 ft (167 m), 4 pitches, Grade II
FA: FFA Peter Croft/Marty Lewis
Page Views: 3,411 total · 22/month
Shared By: Victor Lawson on May 10, 2008
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

Due to the nature of Cardinal Pinnacle there are numerous ways to do this route. The Original line starts on 4th class to gain an offwidth (.10b) then some A1 gets you into a splitter tips crack that goes at about .12b or C1...a free variation avoids the initial A1 and is made up of hard, reachy pulls off downward sloping holds w/ no feet to keep you into the rock (.12c)! Think Barndoor+Reachy+Campus+Slopers and you get the picture. Bolts protect this section and continue to two fixed pins and then the splitter tips in a shallow corner mentioned above. The last pitch is up to you, either take the 5.8 discontinuous cracks just left of the prow, or head up moderate slabs to a burly .10d direct finish.

Like I mentioned, there are tons of ways to link up w/ the crux pitch. Perhaps the best line is to climb the first pitch of the West Face route, then either head straight up and left from the belay on bolts (.10c R) or begin as you would for the second pitch of the West Face (5.8 hands in a book) and traverse left on broken, thin foot ledges to an exposed two bolt belay directly on the arete.

The crux pitch is pretty flakey before the tips corner, but will definitely clean up w/ traffic.

Location

Originally an aid route (5.10b A1) this line takes a striking position on the very nose of the NW corner of Cardinal Pinnacle. The business lies around the corner to the left of The Prow. There are various ways to start and link up into the crux pitch (see above.) Rap down The Prow w/ two ropes or one 70m rope (a 60m will not reach!)

Protection

Bring THIN gear for this one! Micro nuts and blue aliens and that little red camalot is what I used in the tips corner. A hand size piece is great for the 5.8 corner on the second pitch if you go that way and the .10d direct is thin hands mostly. First pitch (of West Face, .10a) is fingers and smaller mostly. Bring some draws for the bolts (seven?) on the crux pitch and a few more runners. There are four pins on the crux pitch, two before the tips corner, and two after. The two after protect an exposed (but mellow) face traverse out right to a bolted belay/rap station. If you do the offwidth (why??) I hear it's about 5-6 inches and there is at least one bolt in the middle of it.

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