Type: Trad, 350 ft (106 m), 3 pitches
FA: Doug Robinson and Dennis Hennek
Page Views: 7,018 total · 40/month
Shared By: Darshan Ahluwalia on Sep 21, 2006
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

Great 5.10- crack climb that has good sections on every pitch. First pitch is the real winner, though, and the crux of the climb.

P1: Climb the small finger crack in the back of the dihedral to a big ledge. First couple moves off the belay is the crux and can be protected with a tiny blue or black alien. A quick 5.10b move.

P2: Climb the discontinous mostly finger-sized crack systems. halfway through the pitch you encounter a 15-foot long splitter tight hands section. This is probably the crux of this pitch. 5.10a. Traverse left on a ledge to belay underneath the offwidth / chimney crack that is the third pitch. A longer pitch.

P3: Climb up and through the chimney. Wide gear required to protect this pitch. Finish on a ledge near the summit. 5.9.

Location

The route is in the center-right of the crag. It starts in the obvious dihedral. Scramble up third and fourth class ledges to get to the base of the dihedral. To get down, there is a short rappel that brings you to the backside of Cardinal Pinnacle. Walk down the scree around the right side of the crag. Scramble up the ledges to get back to the base of the route if needed.

Protection

Standard rack: full set of cams and nuts, with a few extra finger sizes. Bring a couple 4" cams for the last pitch. A blue or black alien is useful to protect the first move on the first pitch.

Photos