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Routes in Cardinal Pinnacle

Bard-Harrington Finish T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Cardinal Sin T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Cardinalidae T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Crack Kingdom T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Cucumbers T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Passeri T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Passeriformes T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Prow, The T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Red Bush T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Regular Route T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Shine or Whine T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
V8 Crack T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
West Face T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 350 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Doug Robinson and Dennis Hennek
Page Views: 5,143 total, 38/month
Shared By: Darshan Ahluwalia on Sep 21, 2006
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


24 Opinions

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Description

Great 5.10- crack climb that has good sections on every pitch. First pitch is the real winner, though, and the crux of the climb.

P1: Climb the small finger crack in the back of the dihedral to a big ledge. First couple moves off the belay is the crux and can be protected with a tiny blue or black alien. A quick 5.10b move.

P2: Climb the discontinous mostly finger-sized crack systems. halfway through the pitch you encounter a 15-foot long splitter tight hands section. This is probably the crux of this pitch. 5.10a. Traverse left on a ledge to belay underneath the offwidth / chimney crack that is the third pitch. A longer pitch.

P3: Climb up and through the chimney. Wide gear required to protect this pitch. Finish on a ledge near the summit. 5.9.

Location

The route is in the center-right of the crag. It starts in the obvious dihedral. Scramble up third and fourth class ledges to get to the base of the dihedral. To get down, there is a short rappel that brings you to the backside of Cardinal Pinnacle. Walk down the scree around the right side of the crag. Scramble up the ledges to get back to the base of the route if needed.

Protection

Standard rack: full set of cams and nuts, with a few extra finger sizes. Bring a couple 4" cams for the last pitch. A blue or black alien is useful to protect the first move on the first pitch.
Derek Field
Flagstaff, AZ
  5.9+
Derek Field   Flagstaff, AZ
  5.9+
Pro for the first move is dicey for sure, but if you've ever done a 5.9 friction mantle you'll be just fine. What a fantastic corner pitch! Aug 23, 2017
Sean
Oak Park, CA
Sean   Oak Park, CA
at the start of Cucumbers dihedral, had more faith in the microstoppers than the tiny cam "placement" after fiddling all in Sep 15, 2014
Karsten Duncan
Sacramento, CA
 
Karsten Duncan   Sacramento, CA
 
I agree with Darshan's assessment of the first pitch. I would conservatively rate this pitch R. The small cam you get in down low is not that inspiring. If that piece pulls you could be going for a ride not only to the base of the route but down the 4th class below. Don't blow it! Sep 9, 2010
Darshan Ahluwalia
Petaluma, CA
 
Darshan Ahluwalia   Petaluma, CA
 
that is really funny about the name. Dec 17, 2007
Bruce Willey
Bishop, CA
Bruce Willey   Bishop, CA
FA Doug Robinson and Dennis Hennek

Why is it called cucumbers? Because the two ate some cucumbers at the top after climbing the route. May 26, 2007