Type: Trad, 3 pitches, Grade II
FA: Dean Hobbs, 1980s
Page Views: 3,084 total · 32/month
Shared By: fossana on Jun 12, 2011
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Red Bush is a fun (and more sustained) alternative to the West Face.

P1: 5.9 Climb the stout finger crack to a ledge.

P2: 5.7 Climb the offwidth passing 2 horizontals on your left. The third (easier) horizontal should end close to the W Face's P3 belay at the base of a short chimney. You may wish to break this pitch up to reduce rope drag.

P3: 5.8 Climb the short but slightly awkward offwidth/chimney. Move left up some easy, but loose, blocks passing a bolt to reach the shared rap anchors on a block that hangs over the W face.

DESCENT
Make 4 raps from the overhanging block. Note that the second rap station is far climber's left from the rap station fall line. The third rap station is ~10 ft below and climber's left of the second belay on the W Face. On the final rap finish uphill from the W Face start.

Location

The route starts on top of the 4th class ledges on the W face of Cardinal Pinnacle to the right of Cucumbers and just to the left of the 5.6 (Regular Route) that climbs the left side of the small pinnacle that forms the right-hand side of Cardinal Pinnacle. As of June 2011 there were 2 stuck nuts at the start of P1.

Protection

Gear to 3" (optional 4" for the chimney/offwidth on P3). Double-slings if you plan to do P2 in one pitch. P1 and P2 are gear belays.

70m or double 60m ropes

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