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Direct South Face
5.9 YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA HVS 5a British
Avg: 2.7 from 194
votes
Routes in Moosedog Tower
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Bitch in Heat T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Chossy Choad T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Direct South Face T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Dogmoose Tower T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Forty-Nine Rainbows S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Half Time T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Lucky Dawg T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b X |
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Moosecat T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Quien Sabe T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Racing The Sun (aka Lucky Charms) T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Swink T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Third Time's a Charm T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Tranquility T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Unknown Choss T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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Wanderin' into Lichtenstein T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Wandering Winnebago T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
| Type: | Trad, 200 ft (61 m), 3 pitches |
| GPS: | 34.0949, -116.1649 |
| FA: | Jim Barker, John Mokri, Bob Dominick & Norm Saude, January 1969, FFA: Chris Gonzalez, May 1975 |
| Page Views: | 13,526 total · 47/month |
| Shared By: | Adam Stackhouse on Jun 28, 2002 |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures Details
Details
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock-colored bolt hangers are allowed. A permit is required to replace or add new bolts: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Seasonal Closures:
The presence of a nesting owl in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes, "Right On," "Orange Flake," "Kid Caligula," requires closure until the nest has been abandoned to ensure the protection of the species for the duration of the nesting activities. This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned.
The presence of a prairie falcon nesting in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes requires closure of "Fat Freddie’s Cat,” “Freak Brothers Dome,” “The Weenie,” “Pea Brain,” and “The Red Obelisk." This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Description
This route starts out of the boulders at the base of the south face, in a prominent left-facing dihedral with an obvious roof capping it. Can't miss it.
Pitch 1: Climb the dihedral to the roof crack, set some gear and pull the crux move (burly 5.9) up and over the right corner of the roof. Easy climbing up the seriously featured face above to a bolt. Belay.
Pitch 2: Climb out of the alcove above the belay, taking the very obvious left-leaning crack (5.7). After angling up and left, the crack goes vertical. Continue up and over into a notch below the upper part of the tower. Belay (#2, #3 Camalots good here).
Pitch 3: A short face section (5.6) leads up and left to gain the bottom of an easy crack leading to the summit ridge. Once on the ridge, run the rope via the easiest route across to the anchor bolts at the back of Moosedog.
Single line rap off the back of the tower from bolts.
Photos
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