| Route Name |
Location |
Star Rating |
Difficulty |
Date |
|
●
Boschido
|
Central Region
> …
1
> Sunshine Wall
> (c) King Pins
|
|
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sport
|
|
Nov 11, 2025 · Lead / Fell/Hung. 3 takes, and some detouring onto the 5.9 crack to the left. Gotta work on this one. The spot that was hardest for me was midway-ish, where a replaced-bolt is right next to chopped bolt shaft. There, gotta lean right, and commit to getting feet up into the high horizontal crack, then go for things. Gotta work on my willingness to fall, so that I’m more willing to try pulling moves that feel insecure. 14 clips. Top anchor chains held on by lap-links that are a bit open. Does have nice lower-off carabiners though!
|
|
●
Hakuna Matata
|
Central Region
> …
1
> Sunshine Wall
> (c) King Pins
|
|
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sport
|
|
Nov 11, 2025 · Lead / Redpoint. Woah, I got it clean!! Major struggle, I kept being pumped, barely getting clips, wanting to call for a take, but opted to do “one more move…” so many times. Kept going, and amazingly got to the chains without actually weighting the rope. Amazing! It’s a great route!!
|
|
●
Sunshine Buttress
|
Central Region
> …
1
> Sunshine Wall
> (c) King Pins
|
|
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sport
|
|
Nov 11, 2025 · Lead / Flash. 15 clips. Extended-reach draw wasn’t necessary, but was a nice-to-have for the last bolt. The move at the last bolt was the only one I really struggled with. Did use the crack to the left for a touch or two.
|
|
●
Vantage Point
|
Central Region
> …
1
> Sunshine Wall
> (c) King Pins
|
|
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sport
|
|
Nov 11, 2025 · Lead / Flash. Clean lead today! Even though it was a bit cold and mostly-dry. 11 clips
|
|
●
Mush Maker
|
South-Central &…
> …
> Royal Columns
> Main Face
|
|
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Trad
|
|
Nov 8, 2025 · Lead / Flash. Today's warmup.
|
|
●
Jam Exam
|
South-Central &…
> …
> Royal Columns
> Orange Sunshine area
|
|
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Trad
|
|
Nov 8, 2025 · Lead / Flash. Clean lead, even though at the end of the day and I'm a bit tired. Good jams, but also didn't feel like a gimme. Happy to have three #3's (don't spend them all too early.) Triples or doubles down to #0.5 (crack narrows quite a bit for the second half,) maybe throw in singles down to #0.3 (optionally useful for protecting the start before the real crack begins.)
|
|
●
Orange Sunshine
|
South-Central &…
> …
> Royal Columns
> Orange Sunshine area
|
|
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Trad
|
|
Nov 8, 2025 · Lead / Fell/Hung. Led again. This time just one take!!! My best yet!! Taping index-finger knuckles helped. Got the two #0.3's in by the arrowhead, then an orange Metolius right at the tip of the arrowhead, which I took on. When I got back on the climb, it was some desparate throws with some vocal sound effects through the remaining moves, with a few fast fire-from-the-hip cam placements (e.g. #0.4, #0.5, and green OP Link cam), and I pushed it right up to the line of possibly falling, but kept managing to barely stick to things all the way to grabbing the chains.
|
|
●
Orange Sunshine
|
South-Central &…
> …
> Royal Columns
> Orange Sunshine area
|
|
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Trad
|
|
Nov 8, 2025 · Lead / Fell/Hung. Got the two #0.3's in by the arrowhead. Clean before that. Many takes after that. The rack I like taking at this point: triples of #1 to #0.3 (including orange Metolius, and fourth #0.4 if I have it,) plus one #2, and one #0.2, and definitely nuts. 12-14 draws. Do tape index-finger knuckles.
|
|
●
Orange Sunshine
|
South-Central &…
> …
> Royal Columns
> Orange Sunshine area
|
|
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Trad
|
|
Nov 2, 2025 · TR. Top roped a few times after having led it, trying to figure out the most efficient sequence for the crux section (i.e. everything beyond the arrowhead shape.)
|
|
●
Orange Sunshine
|
South-Central &…
> …
> Royal Columns
> Orange Sunshine area
|
|
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Trad
|
|
Nov 2, 2025 · Lead / Fell/Hung. Clean up until 85% of the way up, then my troubles started where the two cracks come back together, near the top of the arrowhead shape. From there onward it was mess of so many takes & a little swearing. (There was also a first lesser crux a but below the arrowhead, which I got through clean by skipping gear for a few moves to blast through, then place gear up by the arrowhead.) Record of the actual gear placed this time around: 1x #2, 2x #1, 2x #0.75, 3x #0.5, 2x orange Metolius, 4x #0.4, 2x #0.3, and five nuts. Went through at least 14 draws. Placing nuts on the lower section helps conserve finger sized cams for the upper crux. Upper crux (arrowhead onward) takes around #0.3 / #0.4 / #0.5 sizes. Green Omega Pacific link cam is a nice one to save for a desperate placement up top. Next time I try leading, do tape knuckles, though only the index fingers. Tape would allow me to pull harder on some of the semi-sharp finger crack constrictions up top.
|
|
●
Mush Maker
|
South-Central &…
> …
> Royal Columns
> Main Face
|
|
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Trad
|
|
Nov 2, 2025 · TR. Today's warmup.
|
|
●
Inca Roads
|
South-Central &…
> …
> Royal Columns
> Main Face
|
|
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Trad
|
|
Nov 2, 2025 · Lead / Flash. Clean lead. Still a little sloppy here & there, but mostly cruised it. Wow, this route feels so much easier for me now than it did years ago. Yay personal progress!!
Gear placed this time: 1x #5, 3x #3, 3x #2, 2x #1, 2x #0.75, 2x #0.5, orange Metolius, 2x #0.4, and one nut placement.
|
|
●
Render Us Weightless Roof
|
South-Central &…
> …
> Royal Columns
> Main Face
|
|
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Trad
|
|
Oct 18, 2025 · Lead / Redpoint. My first time getting it clean!! I think I've been on this route twice before. I remember the last time was with Jacob where I was pumped out of my mind and screaming. It feels great that I'm able to lead this cleanly now! Rack: single #0.3, doubles #0.4 to #3, plus a #4 & #5 for the off-width leading up to the roof. Above the roof, worth having essentially a full single rack still saved: yellow, red, green. A final tiny marginal nut gave me confidence to get to the chains when the crack ends and the holds are just flat squares. Also, ambiance note during this chilly fall day: there are motes of white in the air, and my group is split between thinking they're occasional snow flakes, or pollen.
|
|
●
Inca Roads
|
South-Central &…
> …
> Royal Columns
> Main Face
|
|
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Trad
|
|
Oct 18, 2025 · Lead / Flash. Clean lead, but barely. I wanted to take, but managed to stick with it and get to the chains! Recommended rack: triples #0.5 to #3, plus a #5, plus doubles of #0.4 and #0.3. At least 12 draws. Also Orange Metolius is a great fit around the crux area. Seems like the crux is actually a bit of a long section, with the crack size around #0.5 to #0.4. It gets wide again at the top, so maybe save a #2 for up there.
|
|
●
Orange Sunshine
|
South-Central &…
> …
> Royal Columns
> Orange Sunshine area
|
|
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Trad
|
|
Oct 18, 2025 · TR. Clean TR after Jessica's lead.
|
|
●
First Blood
|
South-Central &…
> …
> Royal Columns
> Main Face
|
|
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Trad
|
|
Oct 18, 2025 · Lead / Flash. Got it clean this time! Yay!
|
|
●
South Face
|
Central-W Casca…
> …
> Tooth
> Summer-Fall (rock)
|
|
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Trad 4 pitches
|
|
Oct 15, 2025 · Took a 4-person Mountaineers group up: Josh, Jonathan, & Stuart. Sunday's snowfall has held on, and there's snow on the talus in Great Scott Bowl. Climbing route itself was delightful though, and we turned out to be the only group out there.
|
|
●
Nimrod's Nemesis
|
South-Central &…
> …
> Royal Columns
> Main Face
|
|
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Trad
|
|
Oct 5, 2025 · TR. On a #4 cam rescue mission.
|
|
●
Mush Maker
|
South-Central &…
> …
> Royal Columns
> Main Face
|
|
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Trad
|
|
Oct 5, 2025 · Follow. Followed & cleaned after Neal's lead. Delightful!
|
|
●
First Blood
|
South-Central &…
> …
> Royal Columns
> Main Face
|
|
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Trad
|
|
Oct 5, 2025 · Lead / Fell/Hung. Bah, almost clean! One take. Man and I didn't really need to take, I wasn't physically gripped, just mentally gripped, I shoulda toughed it out a little longer. I was near the top of the crack, benefiting from the sidepull on the hidden crack out right, and only one move away from getting the white knob semi-jug which is the beginning of the end. Anyway, gear notes: save a #4 for up high. Ideal to have two #4's so one can be placed low. A #5 will fit for a while near the beginning of the crack and can be bumped for a few moves. Three #3's, 2 or 3x #2's, doubles of red & green, and singles down to #0.3
|
|
●
Level Head
|
South-Central &…
> …
> Royal Columns
> Main Face
|
|
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Trad
|
|
Oct 5, 2025 · Follow. Followed after Emily's lead. I'm surprised some hasn't granted her the Mountaineers Trad-badge equivalency yet, she's solid!
|
|
●
Watch Your Crotch
|
South-Central &…
> …
> Royal Columns
> Main Face
|
29
|
|
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Trad, TR
|
|
Oct 4, 2025 · Lead.
|
|
●
Belayer Slayer
|
South-Central &…
> …
> Royal Columns
> Main Face
|
|
26
|
|
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Trad, TR
|
|
Oct 4, 2025 · Lead.
|
|
●
Twin Cracks
|
South-Central &…
> …
> Royal Columns
> Main Face
|
|
33
|
|
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Trad
|
|
Oct 4, 2025 · Lead / Flash.
|
|
●
Double Trouble
|
South-Central &…
> …
> Royal Columns
> Main Face
|
|
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Trad
|
|
Oct 4, 2025 · Lead / Flash. Thought I was setting up a nice beginner route, but it's a little hard for first-time crack climbers. Useful after they got a little practice elsewhere. Kinda needs it's own anchor, used bolts to the right. Rack: doubles to #3, since I was willing to run it out a little.
|
|
●
Finger Food
|
Central-E Casca…
> …
1
> Eight Mile Area
> JY Crag
|
|
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Trad
|
|
Sep 28, 2025 · Lead / Onsight. Great finger crack!! I only wish it was longer. (If it was longer, it would be a four star route!) Pro is mainly BD #0.4 & #0.3 sizes, plus a few adjacent sizes (#0.2 and orange Metolius also useful.) Also nuts. Now there's an anchor :)
|
|
●
Armed Forces Crack
|
Central-E Casca…
> …
1
> Eight Mile Area
> JY Crag
|
|
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Trad
|
|
Sep 28, 2025 · Lead / Pinkpoint. After top-rope rehearsals: Holy shit, Jessica led it! Which inspired me to want to too!! She left her gear up, so I pulled the rope and led through her gear, and led it clean!! It was at the edge of my ability. I should try this as a real lead without preplaced pro next time I'm here, I could lead this, though it would be hard. It's an excellent one for pushing the grade on, because the crux is high, with plenty of pro between you and the ground, and only clean slab for the fall. Gotta remind myself that it's okay to fall. This is a good one to practice making insecure moves above my gear on. Draft rack for the future: nuts, singles #0.2 to #2, doubles of #0.2, #0.3, #0.4, and maybe an extra #2. Don't go too heavy.
|
|
●
Six Digits in the Hole
|
Central-E Casca…
> …
1
> Eight Mile Area
> JY Crag
|
|
13
|
|
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Trad, Sport
|
|
Sep 28, 2025 · TR. Since we were top-roping, we could do a direct start from down low, which was fun! Up by the bolts, things got cruxy, with an especially hard section between the 2nd & 3rd bolts. A great opportunity to try out moves on top-rope that I wouldn't do on lead. (At least not yet!)
|
|
●
Armed Forces Crack
|
Central-E Casca…
> …
1
> Eight Mile Area
> JY Crag
|
|
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Trad
|
|
Sep 28, 2025 · TR. Top roped, since it shares an anchor with Ragweed. Excellent crack! Like 5.8 for the vertical hand crack, then harder (5.9?) for the left-diagonalling crack (nut placements would be ideal for much of that diagonal crack.) When the crack runs out, then it's 5.10b friction, and the key is going up and actually a bit back right!
|
|
●
Ragweed
|
Central-E Casca…
> …
1
> Eight Mile Area
> JY Crag
|
|
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Trad, Sport
|
|
Sep 28, 2025 · Lead / Fell/Hung. Almost a clean lead! One take at the last bolt. Rack: singles of #0.1 to #2, though double the red #1, and double the #0.4 silver, and bring nuts. Nut tool neccesary to clear some small cracks of debris. Felt like a zinger of a lead! Attention-getting, but it's all there if you keep trying. Protects just well enough. Tie shoes tight around the toes for edging on small friction edges. Up top, there's one shared pair of bolts+chains for all routes from Barbie Mud Flaps to Six Digits in the Hole.
|
|
●
Boot Top Fracture
|
Central-E Casca…
> …
1
> Lower Icicle Ca…
> Trundle Dome
|
|
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Trad, Sport, TR
|
|
Sep 27, 2025 · TR. Attempted on top rope. I was able to puzzle out feasible movement up until the third-to-last bolt, at which point I couldn't find any holds that I could use at all, so I fell multiple times trying, and eventually just bailed by stepping rightward to climb the finish of April Mayhem instead.
|
|
●
April Mayhem
|
Central-E Casca…
> …
1
> Lower Icicle Ca…
> Trundle Dome
|
|
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Trad, Sport, TR
|
|
Sep 27, 2025 · Lead / Fell/Hung. My first time trying this route! Stick-clip for the first bolt is nice, as the move getting to the first bolt is pretty tricky. Clip the 2nd bolt, then undercling leftward and get up into the left-leaning crack. That crack starts out as thin-hands for me (BD #1 sized), and is quite muscly, the crux of the climb, I took twice there. Above that, the rest of the climb is three bolts of 5.8ish friction, but with heady bolt spacing. Extended-reach quickdraw was helpful for some upper bolts. A purple #0.5 can be placed just before the last bolt, but put a double runner on it. Recommend rack: singles #0.3 to #3, triple up red #1, 5 quickdraws. Weather has been very dry lately, so this route's start was dry, no green ooze, and no wasps seen anywhere either!
|
|
●
Sonic Boom
|
Central-E Casca…
> …
1
> Lower Icicle Ca…
> Trundle Dome
|
|
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Trad, Sport, TR
|
|
Sep 27, 2025 · Lead / Pinkpoint. After Jessica led, I pulled the rope and led cleanly through her gear. The bushes in the early crack have gotten annoyingly large. I wish I had brought clippers.
|
|
●
Paydirt
|
Central-E Casca…
> …
1
> Lower Icicle Ca…
> Surf City
|
|
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Trad, TR
|
|
Sep 27, 2025 · TR. Easy peasy top rope lap after Jessica's lead. I cleaned seemingly a wheelbarrow-sized load of pine needles out of the crack while I was here.
|
|
●
Flake Fest
|
Central-E Casca…
> …
1
> Lower Icicle Ca…
> Trundle Dome
|
|
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Trad, Sport, TR
|
|
Sep 27, 2025 · Lead / Flash. Clean lead! Felt no need for taped knuckles anymore. Still hard at the crux. This time I only placed gear between sizes #0.3 and #0.75 (though I used a lot in there, triples of most of that, particularly #0.4 & #0.5), plus I had the one optional #4 to place by the bush, which I really appreciate because it's otherwise a little runout there. ~4 quickdraws for the bolts. Those bolts look like 3/8" wedge bolts (the nut is definitely 9/16") where the bolt shaft & nut are rusty, but the hangers are shiny. I still trust them for now. Bring a few double runners for some off to the side placements, like the start. Up top, on the anchor chains, the lower-off-carabiner on the right chain is just ~2" shorter than I'd like, causing rope to rub on the rock edge. I should add an extra quicklink to extend it sometime. For now, if it's clipped so it's spine-side is down on the rock (like a mussy hook) that does the best to protect the rope. (Edit: I've added the extra quicklink, it should be better now!)
|
|
●
Return to Easter Island
|
Central-W Casca…
> …
1
2
> Planet Index
> Moai
|
|
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Trad
|
|
Sep 20, 2025 · TR. Took a TR lap a bit after leading. It's hard & tiring even on TR.
|
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