Type: Trad, 30 ft (9 m)
FA: unknown
Page Views: 358 total · 14/month
Shared By: Joel Dashnaw on Apr 3, 2022
Admins: Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Zachary Winters

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Description Suggest change

According to Victor Kramar's guidebook "Leavenworth Rock", this is currently the right-most developed route on the cliff.  This route follows the obvious and striking "laser cut" finger crack.  It is a very short route with the crux at the beginning; the difficulty drops as the route becomes slabbier with some horizontal cracks.  Unfortunately and regrettably, this route currently does not have an anchor (at least not a modern anchor), so be forewarned before attempting this route.  There are two rusted old pins with rings on the sandy, sloping, chossy ledge directly above the crack (perhaps another 15 feet straight up from the crack), but getting to these rings is not straightforward or easily protectable.  Really what this route needs is a modern anchor installed at the top of the crack, below the small roof.  If this route had a modern anchor, it would be a gem, as the finger crack is superb, with many good constrictions and small feet on the face.  It is a great entry finger crack for a beginning leader new to finger cracks.  But again, be forewarned that there is no anchor, currently.

Location Suggest change

Located at the far right side of the JY Crag, this is on an uphill slope, and is the obvious laser cut finger crack.

Protection Suggest change

Small gear to 1inch for the crack itself. If attempting to build an anchor above, bring some larger gear, although there isn't much opportunity for gear past the crack.

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