Member Since
Mar 4, 2013
Last Visit: 46 mins ago
626 Points
Point Rank: #2,552 Details
Point Rank: #2,552 Details
1 Areas
15 pts - 15 each
2 Routes
20 pts - 10 each
100 Photos
500 pts - 5 each
18 Approach Trails
72 pts - 4 each
19 Page Improvements
19 pts - 1 each
More Info
To-Do List Sort & Filter All 243
| Route Name | Location | Star Rating | Difficulty | Date |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| ● Wet Dream | Central-W Casca… > … 1 > Lookout Point Area > Private Idaho |
|
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad | |
| ● Magic Fern | Central-W Casca… > … 1 > Lookout Point Area > Private Idaho |
|
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad | |
| ● Goddess | Central-W Casca… > … 1 > British Aisles > (d) AWOL |
|
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport | |
| ● Permanent Structures | N America > … 1 > Vancouver Island > Triple Peak |
|
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b Easy Snow Sport, Snow, Alpine 8 pitches | |
| ● Interspace Friction | N America > … 1 2 3 > Apron > Lower Apron |
|
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b A0 Trad, Aid 9 pitches | |
| ● Playing Not Spraying | Northwest Region > … 1 2 > Silver Star & W… > Silver Horn |
|
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad, Alpine 8 pitches |
Ticks View All 440
| Route Name | Location | Star Rating | Difficulty | Date |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| ● Baby Lizard | N America > … 1 2 > Smoke Bluffs > Crag X |
|
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad | |
| Jul 21, 2026 · Lead / Fell/Hung. Great route!! 1 take when my fingers were sweaty and I got nervous, but in hindsight it coulda led this clean. Gear: triples #0.4 to #2, plus nuts, and one #0.3, are more than enough to sew up this route, could probably bring a bit less. There’s a lot of great pro opportunities, and some great nut placements. It felt mostly 5.8, but with a number of different brief 5.9 sections. Great rests available too. Bolts with rappel rings at about 90’ up. | ||||
| ● Magic Fern | Central-W Casca… > … 1 > Lookout Point Area > Private Idaho |
|
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad | |
| Jul 18, 2026 · Lead / Fell/Hung. Lead, with an uncountable number of false-starts at the boulder problem beginning, maybe 6 or so takes up on route, and 1 small whip of a lead fall; but I finally got to the top!!!! A big step in the right direction for me. Oof that start is hard. Karate-kicking my left foot to the far-left flake helped me stabilize the first move. After that it took a lot of small-steps footwork, matching feet and slowly working my toes to different holds rightward. Recommend rack: at least triples of #3 & #2, *maybe* doubles of cams below that? Or maybe just all triples. Beginning definitely needs purple little nut, then the black Totem, quickly followed by either a #0.3 or #0.4. Bring a ton of slings, like 14 singles and 4 doubles, plus even a triple can be nice in the cubby. Having two orange Metolius offered some nice placements at the roofy-block below the middle column. Top anchors are better-positioned for Curiously Poses, and need extra extension to line up well above the left-hand finish, or else the rope has to rub over some quite abrasive granite & leave fuzz. I gave it so much try-hard that I may have sprained my wrist just from the amount of physicality, but I’m so glad that I got up it!! | ||||
| ● Magic Fern | Central-W Casca… > … 1 > Lookout Point Area > Private Idaho |
|
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad | |
| Jul 18, 2026 · TR. TR’ed, cleaning Jessica’s gear after her almost-red-point. I still had some falls on top rope. | ||||
| ● Magic Fern | Central-W Casca… > … 1 > Lookout Point Area > Private Idaho |
|
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad | |
| Jul 11, 2026 · TR. Ooof, first time on this, and a rough time on this. Starting move is very hard, but I got it after a top-rope fall. If I were to attempt a lead, I would want to place a nut from the ground, then have a black totem and then a #0.3 on my right side ready to fire in. Crack widens slowly, and after you’re a number of moves in, it does provide good fingers if you keep your feet low on chickenheads. That beginning dog-leg cracks slowly widens all the way to #2 sized. Middle section of the climb (right of the leaning column) is burly #3 size, I feel like I’d want at least three #3’s up that. Topping out that middle column was a challenge, I had a top-rope fall that tore my pants & scraped my leg. Cubby up there provides a nice break. Moving far-left into the next crack system around left starts okay, but narrows to #0.75 size and pushes you awkwardly left. The top-rope did not have redirects in for that section, so the rope kept catching & rubbing on the arete, in a way that I was actually fighting the top-rope, kept falling, kept dragging the rope against that arete, leaving fuzz. I took that fall a few times, but began to get concerned I might cut the rope by doing so. I was really struggling, and then another group came by and asked about getting on the route, and that was the last straw for me: rather than continue to struggle, I just gave up and lowered from there. Couldn’t even finish the route on top-rope :-/ Frustrating, and very disappointed in myself, I can’t even top-rope a 5.10a. Then again, I’ve climbed a number of 5.10b’s elsewhere that were easier than this. Still, ooof. | ||||
| ● Lookout Point Direct (p4) | Central-W Casca… > … 1 2 > Lookout Point > (b) Central Area |
|
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad | |
| Jul 11, 2026 · Lead / Fell/Hung. The pockets near the beginning are cool and techy. Then I got up to the small roofs. There are some really bomber cam placements available among them up there, and then a hidden bolt on top of the flat top above one of the last right-roofs. I tried a number of times to pull up and over right there, couldn’t get it, kept backing off to a more restful stance and then trying again. Eventually I gave up on the onsight, just clipper a draw to that hidden bolt, and yarded myself up using that. Jessica said she found a way to do the move free by going more *left* up there before trying to throw a foot up on top of that momentary-top-out. In retrospect, I can see compared to the yellow line in Jon Nelson’s beta photo, I went to high & right, more than I should have, and was apparently trying to pull a move from Burt's Alpine Dirtbus instead. Soon after: the very awkward right facing corner. I ended up pulling on small cams to get up that too, then a quick bit of slab up top (black totem can protect the first move of the slab,) then I walked right past a couple trees until finding the dirty top ramp of Cloudbeams, and finished there. Nice to have lunch up by the flagpole, and do the walk off. | ||||
| ● Why Here, Tiger Lily? | Central-W Casca… > … 1 2 > Lookout Point > (b) Central Area |
|
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 3 pitches | |
| Jul 11, 2026 · Lead. Jessica led pitch 1 (fun! Excellent quality! Crux came lower than expected, early in the right facing corner. A BD #0.1 was surprisingly helpful at that spot.) I led pitch 2 cleanly: a few hard moves with delicate balance off the belay ledge at the beginning had me nervous, but I got through them. Technically I onsighted the pitch, but with a non-zero amount of fear & complaining. Those first two pitches feel appropriate at 5.9 ratings, maybe even 5.9- compared to typical Index 5.9 sandbagging. Jessica led pitch 3, which, at the awkward bulge, was extremely hard, clearly more than a 5.9 IMHO. The crack that’s there that you would need to wrench on is #0.75 sized, which is too small for me to get a good hand jam. Jessica had to pull on gear to get up it, and I took a top-rope fall there trying to follow it. A few blackberry vines are getting a bit annoying, bringing garden-gloves and a pair of scissors next time could improve things. Also, the cracks are choked with pine needles and plant debris. I did a little nut-tool excavation where I could, so the state of debris-in-cracks is okay, but could be better. For pitch 4 (LOP Direct,) it was my turn to lead again. Overall, our rack: doubles #0.3 to #3, plus single black totem and #0.1. The #0.1 was optional, but surprisingly helpful, definitely would bring again. We strategically tripled up on just #0.75, and #0.4, and were glad for both. | ||||
Tick Breakdown
Trad
Sport
Boulder
Ice
| Pitches | Routes | Days Out | |
| 90 Days | 25 | 23 | 8 |
| Last Year | 148 | 120 | 34 |
| 5 Years | 529 | 406 | 103 |
| All Time | 591 | 440 | 121 |



