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Rob Busack

Seattle, WA

Member Since
Mar 4, 2013
Last Visit: 46 mins ago
626 Points
Point Rank: #2,552 DetailsDrop down

Member of
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5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 150
Wet Dream
Trad
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 128
Magic Fern
Trad
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 260
Goddess
Sport
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b Easy Snow
 4
Permanent Structures
Sport, Snow, Alpine 8 pitches
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b A0
 38
Interspace Friction
Trad, Aid 9 pitches
N America > … > Apron > Lower Apron
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 5
Playing Not Spraying
Trad, Alpine 8 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Wet Dream Central-W Casca… > … > Lookout Point Area > Private Idaho
 150
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad
Magic Fern Central-W Casca… > … > Lookout Point Area > Private Idaho
 128
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Goddess Central-W Casca… > … > British Aisles > (d) AWOL
 260
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Permanent Structures N America > … > Vancouver Island > Triple Peak
 4
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b Easy Snow Sport, Snow, Alpine 8 pitches
Interspace Friction N America > … > Apron > Lower Apron
 38
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b A0 Trad, Aid 9 pitches
Playing Not Spraying Northwest Region > … > Silver Star & W… > Silver Horn
 5
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad, Alpine 8 pitches

Ticks View All 440

5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 95
Baby Lizard
Jul 21, 2026 · Lead / Fell/Hung. Great route!! 1 take when my fingers were sweaty and I got nervous, but in hindsight it coulda led this clean. Gear: triples #0.4 to #2, plus nuts, and one #0.3, are more than enough to sew up this route, could probably bring a bit less. There’s a lot of great pro opportunities, and some great nut placements. It felt mostly 5.8, but with a number of different brief 5.9 sections. Great rests available too. Bolts with rappel rings at about 90’ up.
Trad
N America > … > Smoke Bluffs > Crag X
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 128
Magic Fern
Jul 18, 2026 · Lead / Fell/Hung. Lead, with an uncountable number of false-starts at the boulder problem beginning, maybe 6 or so takes up on route, and 1 small whip of a lead fall; but I finally got to the top!!!! A big step in the right direction for me. Oof that start is hard. Karate-kicking my left foot to the far-left flake helped me stabilize the first move. After that it took a lot of small-steps footwork, matching feet and slowly working my toes to different holds rightward. Recommend rack: at least triples of #3 & #2, *maybe* doubles of cams below that? Or maybe just all triples. Beginning definitely needs purple little nut, then the black Totem, quickly followed by either a #0.3 or #0.4. Bring a ton of slings, like 14 singles and 4 doubles, plus even a triple can be nice in the cubby. Having two orange Metolius offered some nice placements at the roofy-block below the middle column. Top anchors are better-positioned for Curiously Poses, and need extra extension to line up well above the left-hand finish, or else the rope has to rub over some quite abrasive granite & leave fuzz. I gave it so much try-hard that I may have sprained my wrist just from the amount of physicality, but I’m so glad that I got up it!!
Trad
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 128
Magic Fern
Jul 18, 2026 · TR. TR’ed, cleaning Jessica’s gear after her almost-red-point. I still had some falls on top rope.
Trad
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 128
Magic Fern
Jul 11, 2026 · TR. Ooof, first time on this, and a rough time on this. Starting move is very hard, but I got it after a top-rope fall. If I were to attempt a lead, I would want to place a nut from the ground, then have a black totem and then a #0.3 on my right side ready to fire in. Crack widens slowly, and after you’re a number of moves in, it does provide good fingers if you keep your feet low on chickenheads. That beginning dog-leg cracks slowly widens all the way to #2 sized. Middle section of the climb (right of the leaning column) is burly #3 size, I feel like I’d want at least three #3’s up that. Topping out that middle column was a challenge, I had a top-rope fall that tore my pants & scraped my leg. Cubby up there provides a nice break. Moving far-left into the next crack system around left starts okay, but narrows to #0.75 size and pushes you awkwardly left. The top-rope did not have redirects in for that section, so the rope kept catching & rubbing on the arete, in a way that I was actually fighting the top-rope, kept falling, kept dragging the rope against that arete, leaving fuzz. I took that fall a few times, but began to get concerned I might cut the rope by doing so. I was really struggling, and then another group came by and asked about getting on the route, and that was the last straw for me: rather than continue to struggle, I just gave up and lowered from there. Couldn’t even finish the route on top-rope :-/ Frustrating, and very disappointed in myself, I can’t even top-rope a 5.10a. Then again, I’ve climbed a number of 5.10b’s elsewhere that were easier than this. Still, ooof.
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 19
Lookout Point Direct (p4)
Jul 11, 2026 · Lead / Fell/Hung. The pockets near the beginning are cool and techy. Then I got up to the small roofs. There are some really bomber cam placements available among them up there, and then a hidden bolt on top of the flat top above one of the last right-roofs. I tried a number of times to pull up and over right there, couldn’t get it, kept backing off to a more restful stance and then trying again. Eventually I gave up on the onsight, just clipper a draw to that hidden bolt, and yarded myself up using that. Jessica said she found a way to do the move free by going more *left* up there before trying to throw a foot up on top of that momentary-top-out. In retrospect, I can see compared to the yellow line in Jon Nelson’s beta photo, I went to high & right, more than I should have, and was apparently trying to pull a move from Burt's Alpine Dirtbus instead. Soon after: the very awkward right facing corner. I ended up pulling on small cams to get up that too, then a quick bit of slab up top (black totem can protect the first move of the slab,) then I walked right past a couple trees until finding the dirty top ramp of Cloudbeams, and finished there. Nice to have lunch up by the flagpole, and do the walk off.
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 78
Why Here, Tiger Lily?
Jul 11, 2026 · Lead. Jessica led pitch 1 (fun! Excellent quality! Crux came lower than expected, early in the right facing corner. A BD #0.1 was surprisingly helpful at that spot.) I led pitch 2 cleanly: a few hard moves with delicate balance off the belay ledge at the beginning had me nervous, but I got through them. Technically I onsighted the pitch, but with a non-zero amount of fear & complaining. Those first two pitches feel appropriate at 5.9 ratings, maybe even 5.9- compared to typical Index 5.9 sandbagging. Jessica led pitch 3, which, at the awkward bulge, was extremely hard, clearly more than a 5.9 IMHO. The crack that’s there that you would need to wrench on is #0.75 sized, which is too small for me to get a good hand jam. Jessica had to pull on gear to get up it, and I took a top-rope fall there trying to follow it. A few blackberry vines are getting a bit annoying, bringing garden-gloves and a pair of scissors next time could improve things. Also, the cracks are choked with pine needles and plant debris. I did a little nut-tool excavation where I could, so the state of debris-in-cracks is okay, but could be better. For pitch 4 (LOP Direct,) it was my turn to lead again. Overall, our rack: doubles #0.3 to #3, plus single black totem and #0.1. The #0.1 was optional, but surprisingly helpful, definitely would bring again. We strategically tripled up on just #0.75, and #0.4, and were glad for both.
Trad 3 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Baby Lizard N America > … > Smoke Bluffs > Crag X
 95
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad
Jul 21, 2026 · Lead / Fell/Hung. Great route!! 1 take when my fingers were sweaty and I got nervous, but in hindsight it coulda led this clean. Gear: triples #0.4 to #2, plus nuts, and one #0.3, are more than enough to sew up this route, could probably bring a bit less. There’s a lot of great pro opportunities, and some great nut placements. It felt mostly 5.8, but with a number of different brief 5.9 sections. Great rests available too. Bolts with rappel rings at about 90’ up.
Magic Fern Central-W Casca… > … > Lookout Point Area > Private Idaho
 128
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Jul 18, 2026 · Lead / Fell/Hung. Lead, with an uncountable number of false-starts at the boulder problem beginning, maybe 6 or so takes up on route, and 1 small whip of a lead fall; but I finally got to the top!!!! A big step in the right direction for me. Oof that start is hard. Karate-kicking my left foot to the far-left flake helped me stabilize the first move. After that it took a lot of small-steps footwork, matching feet and slowly working my toes to different holds rightward. Recommend rack: at least triples of #3 & #2, *maybe* doubles of cams below that? Or maybe just all triples. Beginning definitely needs purple little nut, then the black Totem, quickly followed by either a #0.3 or #0.4. Bring a ton of slings, like 14 singles and 4 doubles, plus even a triple can be nice in the cubby. Having two orange Metolius offered some nice placements at the roofy-block below the middle column. Top anchors are better-positioned for Curiously Poses, and need extra extension to line up well above the left-hand finish, or else the rope has to rub over some quite abrasive granite & leave fuzz. I gave it so much try-hard that I may have sprained my wrist just from the amount of physicality, but I’m so glad that I got up it!!
Magic Fern Central-W Casca… > … > Lookout Point Area > Private Idaho
 128
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Jul 18, 2026 · TR. TR’ed, cleaning Jessica’s gear after her almost-red-point. I still had some falls on top rope.
Magic Fern Central-W Casca… > … > Lookout Point Area > Private Idaho
 128
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Jul 11, 2026 · TR. Ooof, first time on this, and a rough time on this. Starting move is very hard, but I got it after a top-rope fall. If I were to attempt a lead, I would want to place a nut from the ground, then have a black totem and then a #0.3 on my right side ready to fire in. Crack widens slowly, and after you’re a number of moves in, it does provide good fingers if you keep your feet low on chickenheads. That beginning dog-leg cracks slowly widens all the way to #2 sized. Middle section of the climb (right of the leaning column) is burly #3 size, I feel like I’d want at least three #3’s up that. Topping out that middle column was a challenge, I had a top-rope fall that tore my pants & scraped my leg. Cubby up there provides a nice break. Moving far-left into the next crack system around left starts okay, but narrows to #0.75 size and pushes you awkwardly left. The top-rope did not have redirects in for that section, so the rope kept catching & rubbing on the arete, in a way that I was actually fighting the top-rope, kept falling, kept dragging the rope against that arete, leaving fuzz. I took that fall a few times, but began to get concerned I might cut the rope by doing so. I was really struggling, and then another group came by and asked about getting on the route, and that was the last straw for me: rather than continue to struggle, I just gave up and lowered from there. Couldn’t even finish the route on top-rope :-/ Frustrating, and very disappointed in myself, I can’t even top-rope a 5.10a. Then again, I’ve climbed a number of 5.10b’s elsewhere that were easier than this. Still, ooof.
Lookout Point Direct (p4) Central-W Casca… > … > Lookout Point > (b) Central Area
 19
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Jul 11, 2026 · Lead / Fell/Hung. The pockets near the beginning are cool and techy. Then I got up to the small roofs. There are some really bomber cam placements available among them up there, and then a hidden bolt on top of the flat top above one of the last right-roofs. I tried a number of times to pull up and over right there, couldn’t get it, kept backing off to a more restful stance and then trying again. Eventually I gave up on the onsight, just clipper a draw to that hidden bolt, and yarded myself up using that. Jessica said she found a way to do the move free by going more *left* up there before trying to throw a foot up on top of that momentary-top-out. In retrospect, I can see compared to the yellow line in Jon Nelson’s beta photo, I went to high & right, more than I should have, and was apparently trying to pull a move from Burt's Alpine Dirtbus instead. Soon after: the very awkward right facing corner. I ended up pulling on small cams to get up that too, then a quick bit of slab up top (black totem can protect the first move of the slab,) then I walked right past a couple trees until finding the dirty top ramp of Cloudbeams, and finished there. Nice to have lunch up by the flagpole, and do the walk off.
Why Here, Tiger Lily? Central-W Casca… > … > Lookout Point > (b) Central Area
 78
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 3 pitches
Jul 11, 2026 · Lead. Jessica led pitch 1 (fun! Excellent quality! Crux came lower than expected, early in the right facing corner. A BD #0.1 was surprisingly helpful at that spot.) I led pitch 2 cleanly: a few hard moves with delicate balance off the belay ledge at the beginning had me nervous, but I got through them. Technically I onsighted the pitch, but with a non-zero amount of fear & complaining. Those first two pitches feel appropriate at 5.9 ratings, maybe even 5.9- compared to typical Index 5.9 sandbagging. Jessica led pitch 3, which, at the awkward bulge, was extremely hard, clearly more than a 5.9 IMHO. The crack that’s there that you would need to wrench on is #0.75 sized, which is too small for me to get a good hand jam. Jessica had to pull on gear to get up it, and I took a top-rope fall there trying to follow it. A few blackberry vines are getting a bit annoying, bringing garden-gloves and a pair of scissors next time could improve things. Also, the cracks are choked with pine needles and plant debris. I did a little nut-tool excavation where I could, so the state of debris-in-cracks is okay, but could be better. For pitch 4 (LOP Direct,) it was my turn to lead again. Overall, our rack: doubles #0.3 to #3, plus single black totem and #0.1. The #0.1 was optional, but surprisingly helpful, definitely would bring again. We strategically tripled up on just #0.75, and #0.4, and were glad for both.

Tick Breakdown
Trad Sport Boulder Ice

Pitches Routes Days Out
90 Days 25 23 8
Last Year 148 120 34
5 Years 529 406 103
All Time 591 440 121

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