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Routes in Main Face
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Apprentice, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Arete-Acal, The S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Ball and Chain T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Belayer Slayer T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Bridger T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Chasing Amy T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Contraction Action T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Double Trouble T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Extra Action T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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First Blood T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Good Timer T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Gray Digger T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Hard Last S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Humble Pie S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Ignorant Pursuit T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Imperial Master S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Inca Roads T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Journeyman Crack T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Level Head T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Little Known Wonder T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Mush Maker T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Nimble Novice T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Nimrod's Nemesis T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Nobody Loves Me T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Not So Easy T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Rattler T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Render Us Weightless Roof T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Render Us Weightless/Ball & Chain--Direct Start T,S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Rock-n-Roll Chimney T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Rolling Stone T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Slacker T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Slash T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Slime Puppy T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Slot Machine T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Sorcerer, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Stopper Popper T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Switchback T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Too Far Out T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Twin Cracks T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Watch Your Crotch T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Wild Child/variation T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
| Type: | Trad, 100 ft (30 m) |
| GPS: | 46.72512, -120.80948 |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 2,608 total · 14/month |
| Shared By: | Steve Marr on Jun 16, 2010 · Updates |
| Admins: | Jon Nelson, Zachary Winters, Mitchell McAuslan |
Description
Unlike the other double crack climbs that work up a face between two pillars, Twin Cracks climbs two cracks that are fairly close together in a corner. Felt harder than the 5.6 rating, and much more difficult than it's neighbor - Double Trouble. Climb up easy, lower angled rock to a small ledge on the left side. Above this point, the climb is sustained with few rests. Jam up the two cracks - stemming options are limited. Great gear throughout.
Protection
Large stoppers and cams to 4 inches all the way up. Occasional opportunities exist for smaller pro down to half an inch in side-cracks, but they're not the main thing. In Black Diamond sizes, that might look like: optionally one #4 cam, doubles or triples of blue #3 & yellow #2 cams, then whatever amount you feel like down to little-blue #0.3. (An old 4.5 Camalot can be used if you happen to have one.) If Tieton-5.7 is close to your limit, then having up to four #3's, or a second #4, may be appreciated. Or, if confident at the grade, hexes can be a viable alternative to some of the cam placements.
There are chains at the very top of the wide left-hand crack, with permanent steel carabiners for whoever cleans-and-lowers.
(Like most routes, leading the cracks is the best way to get a rope up, and lowering off is the best way to clean up. Alternatively, top access is possible here via a scramble around the north end of the crag, if you really want to walk-off, or if you want to hang a top-rope without leading, but it's not ideal: slinging a boulder above the chains would be prudent to protect the exposed move between the cliff-top and the chains. Also, the chains are in an alcove that would be quite hidden if trying to locate them from above without already knowing exactly where to look.)
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